I'm in the market for a new (or new to me, I don't mind used) intake for my 73 Mav. I'm hesitant to get a brand new one because they're a bit pricey and I've heard some of the older styles are actually better. Reading around the boards here the Torker 289 seems to be well loved despite being nearly two decades old; the Performer Air Gap RPM is also a contender, albeit a bit more expensive (even used). I know there's a bunch of other intakes available but know little about them. My plan is to have a mildly upgraded 302, still a commuter car but with some gusto; it'll never be a drag car but that's not what I'm looking for. I plan to upgrade my Motorcraft 2bbl carb to either a 500 2bbl or a 4bbl Holley/Edelbrock, not to exceed 650cfm, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. The PO already installed the 6901 Hookers which saved me a bit, and I'm hoping to capitalize on the savings to increase air flow even more. Thanks!
a performer is basically a stock replacement intake but if you have 2 barrel and switch to 4 it will work fine on a basically stock engine.i personally would buy a performer rpm.doesnt have to be an rpm.i actually have the summit house brand of performer rpm.
I enjoyed the Torker289, despite many saying that it would have poor bottom end performance. I didn't see it or feel it. It was "peppy". Steer clear of Performer 289. Pretty much just aluminum replacement for stock intake. edit-he hit ENTER just a second before I did...
So you'd recommend the Performer RPM? Would getting the Air Gap version add any HP/torque or would it do nothing for the stock set up? I hope to someday (probably soon given how this thing's leaking) build up the motor but it'll never be a drag car. Still, I'd like to give myself some room to grow without sacrificing the simpler/stock performance.
the benifit of the air gap is that the runners and plenum are seprated from the lifter valley and dont have hot oil splashing on the bottom of them heating them up. cooler air is more efficent. the air gap mainifold should have beter perfromance in all aspects including fuel economy.
So the Weiand Stealth is closer in configuration and specs to the RPM? I'm leaning towards the Torker but they're not as plentiful as newer models (but when they are they're certainly cheaper). Something to think about. I'd love to do everything now now now, it's hard to wait.
Yes, the Torkers are getting hard to find, and you will often get one with 20 years worth of corrosion and wear. I have seen stripped bolt holes that had to be drilled and tapped the next size up (my current one, on one of the thermostat housing holes). my old one had a couple of broken mounting-bolt holes that someone did a good job of tig-welding up. Both worked well, but needed a little work to get them on sufficiently. So if you can find a newer manifold, you will most likely be getting one with less wear and corrosion, and a longer life-span for your use.
Your stock engine stops making hp at about 4800 rpm. Getting a manifold that is tuned higher than that is a waste of dollars. If you are adding a cam then match the manifold to the cam. All of the intake, head and exhaust parts should be matched for the best power production.
Here's a list of good-un's: Performer RPM (std or airgap) Weiand Stealth, Ford A321, Shelby's old "Cobra" high rise dual plane, Edelbrock's old F4B. Don't waste your money on a new Performer, these are no better than a used 80's 5.0 HO 4 bbl intake, nor the original Ford iron 289/302 4 bbl intakes that can be had for $50. My favorite is the Ford A321/F4B/Cobra (these are basically all the same intakes) They work great on stock to mild 289/302's while leaving room to grow on if you plan more upgrades down the road. The older Stealth's are mirror images of the A321/F4B/Cobra with the runner layout reversed. The difference in these vs the RPM/newer Stealth is the runners are unequal length vs the RPM/Stealth's equal length runners. Neither offers any advantage over the other, all work great from idle to 6500, no matter what cam or heads you run em with.
Read dyno test where an Air Gap made only 1% more power than an RPM. Not much gain for the extra $70.
the rpm should make about the same power as the air gap on a dyno. on a dyno the motor isnt contiously running there isnt air flow across the intake. the big benifit of the air gap is that the plunum stays cooler because there is no hot oil heating up the intake runners and plenum
Makes sense, guess it depends on the car and how much "cool" air there really is under the hood. I've also heard that in cold climates the Air Gap can be rough runniing because the runners are isolated from the heat, causes the mixture to not atomize completely.
You have been given a lot of advice about manifolds the run to 6500 rpm. I understand that your engine is stock - with a stock cam - so Go to a few of the websites of the manufacturers of these manifolds and see which manifolds match the 4800 rpm of which your engine is capable. Decide for yourself keeping in mind that economy is important and that you have a stock engine. Make a few calls and talk to the tech folks - talk to a few local engine builders - get as much information as you can and see what applies to your engine and your application.
