hmm i have a problem I press as hard as i can on the pedel and the back wheels spin as easy as if im not i bleed the brakes extreamly well so there is no air in the lines the master cylinders full the pads are new along witht he drumsalso the wheel cylinders are new the frounts lock up good no problem there.
does the parking brake work? if not, you need to adjust the rear brakes. maybe this is why your rear brakes don't work. just a guess. good place to start .best of luck!
Just make sure you have adjusted the rear brake shoes to just start dragging on the drum when you turn it by hand. Will be much easier to do if you jack the rearend up with both wheels off the ground. That way you can get both wheels as close to each other as possible (in the adjustment). Hope this helps.
I also believe its in the adjustment. I adjust mine so there is a good steady drag all the time. How far out to you pull the brake lever before it stops? Should be around 1/3 of its full travel. If there is a solid stream of fluid comming out when you bleed them, it can only be adjustment or improper assembly. Are you sure all the parts are installed correctly? Jut asking, not trying to be a smart ass.
The park brake works how it should the pads are ajusted right. It just wont work when i press the pedel they are bled properly its almost like when i press the pedel all the pressure goes to the frount:confused:
Your flow divider has positioned itself to cut off the flow to the rear wheels. You need to recenter it and lock it in place before you bleed the brakes. The valve is supposed to recenter itself but they don't always. Pull the switch out and use a small screwdriver or pick to center the valve. Use a bolt that is sharpened to hold the valve in place and re-bleed the brakes. PaulS
I have to dissagree with that. His problem is that there is no braking on the rear wheels. While it will turn the brake light on, the proporting valve does not cut off flow to any part of the brake system. There are little passages that go to a piston to turn on the brake light, if there is a difference in pressure between front and rear. But even if its stuck one way or the other, it still wont have ant effect on fluid travel to the wheels. If when bleeding the cylinders, the fluid discharge looks normal, then it has to be a mechanical problem. When you open the bleeder valve and hit the brake pedal hard, fluid should shoot half way across to the other side. If so, then you have a mechanical problem. Pull the brake drum and have someone push slowly on the brakes. see if the cylinder pistons are pushing out the shoes. If everything looks good up until this point, there has to be something not assembled or adjusted correctly.
Disagree as you want but it is designed to maintain pedal in the event of a line rupture. If the brakes are bled too quickly it will slam to one side or the other closing the port to the side with the excessive flow. If you look at the attached photo you will see the spool in the center. If more pressure builds on one side of it the spool will move toward the side that leaks and block it - at the same time turning on the light for brake failure.
you have short and long shoes. check and see if they are or the correct side (front or rear) on the backing plate. as dennis said it sounds like something not installed correctly. j.m.o....frank...
Look at the backing plates as well. On my orange '72...after 180,000 miles, there were groves cut into the high spots where the brake shoes ride. Once the show fell into this groove...it would be stuck. There was no way I was going to chance it. I ground the grooves out and made sure all the high spots were smooth and flat.
The valve you have pictured is not what is installed on these cars. Here is the correct proportioning valve. As you can see, it is shown with the piston to one side and it clearly does not restrict fluid. The valve you show may do exactly what you said, but it just isnt the same as what came from the factory in any CoMav.
Take the tires and drums off. Gently pry the shoes a little to make sure they move. But if the parking brake locks up the wheels, I'd say they move correctly. Then have someone gently and slowly push the pedal down, just enough to make sure the shoes are moving. If the shoes move, it's adjustment. If not and you get fluid out of the bleeder screws, the cylinders are stuck somehow. Either rust, pitting or hardened brake fluid. Just replace them. Use the KISS method when trouble shooting, Keep It Simple St&*!d. Start with the simple stuff and go from there.
There not moving but i just replaced them thats why i was doing this work in the first place to replace the wheel cylinders.