Well my ticking lifter is still ticking. There were 3 frozen lifters in the set I had from Comp Cams ..I figured they might losen up after install but one keeps on ticking (#6 intake). Now this lifter is causing the push rod to sit lower in the engine (after multiple valve adjustments) .... either the lifter has collapsed or I wore the lobe off. Engine runs great but ...tick, tick, tick ... I bought a new Cam and lifter set and all these new lifters are fine .. I can compress them with my finger. I am gonna pull the intake tomorrow and see what's up ... Do you think I shouldn't bother taking the chance and just put the new Cam and Lifter set in or just replace the lifters? Currently have a Magnum 270H CompCams and just bought a Xtreme Energy 268H to replace it. Also .. is there enough clearance in the Maverick engine bay to remove the cam if just the radiator is removed? Do I need to remove the grill? Front Bumper? Jack the engine up? I'm sure others have done this in the car ... I don't mind removing the grill but don't want to mess with the front bumper if I can just jack the engine .. Thanks ...
Dan; you can remove the rad and put the cam in through the hole in the support. I've done it too many times. Pretty easy. Good luck. Let us know what the culprit was. I was going to get the 270h cam, but I will wait to see what happened to yours. Later,
Being as it takes about 45 seconds to remove the grill and it will make it a bit easier on you to do so, I'd say do it. Good luck on the cam swap. Hope this one doesn't go bad on you. remember to make sure all your pushrods are nice and straight in case a bad lifter caused you to bend one or more.
If your running a flat tappet cam with dual valve springs, remove the inner spring for break in. The lobes will thank you.
Thanks guys .... The Mav will be at the Muffler shop getting the duals run today so hopefully I can get the Cam out tonight once I get it back ... Earl ... The 270H runs strong and I like it but then I started reading about cams with different lifts on the intake and exhaust possibly running stronger. The 270H has a .500 lift on intake and exhaust .... The XE268 has .509 on the intake and .512 on the exhaust. Valve timing is also slightly different. They also show this grind getting almost 350HP in a Chevy 350 with a similar setup to what I have. I looked at going roller but it would have cost over $800 for the retrofit Cam, lifters and rods ... and I am not sure but possibly the heads have to come off to install the lifters .... http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=31-242-3 http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=31-414-3
Dan- You can't really go by results on a small Chevrolet. The exhaust ports outflow stock small Ford ports by a mile. In fact, Chevrolets would probably really haul butt if only they didn't put the motors in backward. What kind of heads are you running?
Dan; we can probably get a complete roller cam engine for less than that. Seems like that would be the way to go. Take care,
Yeah .. I would just need the bracket for the late model engine to run my Mechanical Clutch linkage ... Running 289 heads that have been worked ... don't know all the details. Larger valves, screw in studs, guides, Springs supposedly good to .550 lift ... CompCams hardened pushrods with adjustable CompCams Magnum roller-tip rockers Tore the engine down today. Forget to borrow the damper puller so didn't get the Cam out yet ... Here are the lifters from the #6 cylinder. The one in the middle is a good lifter from another cylinder. I stuck good lifters in #6 and verified the Cam Lobe is worn as well ...
Yeah .. kind scary ... always plenty of oil on top when I take the valve covers off though .. One of the lifters on that cylinder was frozen when I installed it .. big mistake doing that. But I can't understand why both lifters on the same cylinder did this ... Unless I really screwed up the valve adjustment on that one cylinder ... The one on the right with the burnt area is the frozen one .. Wouldn't the sides of the lifters be tore up if it wasn't oiling?
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but all that metal off of those lifters went somewhere. Care to guess? Hopefully it was in the filter and not embedded in the bearings. Almost all lifters these days are made by Eaton, and the quality has tanked. A friend of mine finally went to solids.
The oil in the filter definitely had a metallic sheen to it ... The oil pan did also but not as concentrated as the filter ... I know others on this board have wiped cam lobes and flushed the engine out with a couple of back to back oil changes. Hopefully all works out. I'd guess the engine has around 60 to 90 minutes of run-time on it .. but strangely enough I didn't hear the lifter problem until after the first 20-minute break-in went smooth ...
This looks familiar .... Not enough Moly-lube during break-in according this this FAQ: http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1 Also ... I assembled the engine atleast a month before initial startup. The Comp Cams guide says engine should be started as soon as possible after assembly ... oh well .. I hope I have better luck this time ..
