I am going to do the shift kit mods to the c-4 this weekend, and want to do a full fluid change. I did a search on the forum for the converter drain plug and got mixed messages. My MustangII Haynes manual (closest thing I could find to Maverick) reports on drain plugs, that appear to be in the flywheel, if you pull the bottom cover off the bellhousing. They say you have to rotate the engine until the plug comes into view. I have also read that swapping the fluid on a 58,000mile c-4 might be bad (dislodging all the crud that is making it work). I have done a fluid change back at 55,000, and it started to leak at the shift linkage. That is one thing I will fix while I am in there, have a new seal and o-ring to stop that leak. Anyway, is there a drain plug in the C-4?
Yep! and it sticks through the flex plate, so you should be able to get to it. Just make sure it is all the way down, or you will drown in typeF.
Now, how much of the 2 gallons will come out the converter? I know some, like 2-3 qts rides in the pan and valve body, so how big of a container will I need at the converter? I know I will get a greasy shower anyway. But want to catch as much as I can. Might start tonight, and let it all drip overnight. That way, I can get the pan glued back on without oil getting on the gasket. By the way, I need to know...gasket only? Gasket and sealant? Sealant only on the pan? I used gasket and sealant last time, and it is leaking now. I think I overtorqued the bolts. And what is the correct torque?
The converter drain while poke through a hole in the flywheel between 2 of converter to flywheel bolts. The converter will have about 2 quarts in it the rest is in the pan. If you want to go the extra step you can also blow out the cooler lines. I never use sealant on the gasket. While it is empty you may consider replacing the o ring on the fill tube especially if there is any sign of leakage there.
good time to install a drain plug in the pan, too. yes, keep silicone out of the fluid. a large drain pan like you see busboys using in restaurants (maybe 24" x 18" x 6" deep). i found them at sam's club years ago. very useful. drop pan & valve bdy first. vb will let some fluid out of the converter.
I have a drain plug ready to install. I have heard to drop the converter fluid first, to get teh bulk of the gunk. So, is it valvebody or converter first? I assume this is one of those "6 of one, half dozen of another" type questions. Also, rubber or cork gasket, or does it make a difference?
Not really sure where you are hearing there will be so much gunk? i had over 100k on my tranny when i bought the car and the fluid was only slightly dark. busted the band about another 45k in and the fluid was only lightly dark with a couple of metal chunks from the band. just pulled the transmission in the process of the swap im doing to a PA C-4 and it has now 236k on the transmission. the only reason im pulling it is because the seals are starting to leak and i dont want to mess with a rebuild. the fluid shouldnt be that dirty unless there is something wrong.
http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=10998&highlight=converter+drain Did a search and this thread had a couple of guys saying "the gunk is what is giving you good seals right now" and if you clean it out, you will start leaking and slipping.
what color is your fluid on the stick? sounds like dans was either horridly bad or an off brand. like i said mine was only slightly off color. i think the main seals on mine were only leaking because of 30+ years and 230+k miles. i had even pulled the converter about 10k miles ago when i had the block done. that didnt immediately affect the front seal, but im sure it added to it.
My color isn't too "off-red" and I only have 58,000 miles on the original car and trans. I don't think it was ever changed until I got it 3 years ago at 55,000 miles. Even then, not too bad. I swapped out the 3-5 qts that came out from the bottom, new filter, reassembled. It was driven by my wife's great grandmother from '73 until maybe '88, then she was put in a nursing home and the car was driven maybe 5 miles every 6 months for a while, just to keep it running, then not at all for years. When I got it, I rebuilt the top half of the engine, and I run it a little bit harder than great-grandma :evilsmile and changed all fluids as soon as I got it. There is no slippage, no bad smells, and I added an external trans cooler just to be safe (probably 10X16 or so, a size or two larger than recommended) actually in effort to cool down the running temps on the engine. The seals at the linkage are dry-rotted, and I have replacements ready to install this weekend, seal and o-ring. It is hard to describe the color right now, since it leaks about a quart each 2-3 months, and gets a constant renewal as it leaks. Currently, if I pull the dipstick, it will look almost new in color.
i dont think you will have to worry about having good fluid in it. worst case scenario you start leaking from the front seal and have to change it, but that would have been more likely when pulling and installing your engine. how do you plan to prime the converter once its empty?
i just get one of the large oil drain pans and drain the convertor, then drop the pan. even if you put a drain plug in it sticks up about 1/4 inch so you still have a good amount of fluid in the pan. don't use any sealant. and check the pan. if it has been overtightened, you need to put the edge on an anvil or dolly and flatten it back out or it could leak.
Make Sure The Gasket Surface Is Flat And As Don Stated I Lay The Pan With The Side Of The Pan On A Vice And Take A Ballpeen Hamer And Dimple The Holes As Most Of The Time The Holes Have Been Tightened Too Much And The Gasket Surface Is Not Flat I Then Start All My Bolts And Tightened Till The Gasket Starts To Squeeze Out The Side ,also Alternate The Tightening Of The Bolts
Is there a trick to "priming the converter"? I will search forum and see if there is any documentation. As for the pan, I just lightly tightened it last time using a 4" long one-hand 3/8 ratchet. Maybe 5 ft/lbs. Then when the linkage started leaking worse, and I saw fluid on the pan, I assumed the pan was leaking and alternately tightened them all another 2-3 ft/lbs. I doubt I did enough to bend anything, but I did start to see the gasket pinch out the sides, which is why I think is is really leaking at the pan now. I could check for flatness anyway, just in case. edit--did a search and this thread was the only one with "prime OR priming converter" in it. Except for one other thread about painting.
