Is it possible that the key on the Crank when at 12 o'clock not corrospond with #1 piston being at top dead center? When I installed my timing chain I am sure that everthing was aligned and even rotated the engine several times to make sure. However, while trouble shooting timing issues the true TDC of #1 was actually at around the 40 degree BTDC mark on the damper. This is now screwing up the Cam Timing. The #1 intake is supposed to start opening at 16 degrees BTDC on the exhaust storke but is now opening at like 30 ATDC on the intake. Seem all wacked out. Anyway ... why would the key not match TDC? Looks like I have some dissassembly Amazingly it runs ..
Just thought of something ... is it possible that the Maverick Dampers with the pointer on the passenger side are different than the Mustangs on the right? I am using an aftermarket Fluid Damper ... Edit: OK ... Did find out the TDC on the damper lines up if the pointer was on the left side of the engine. Still got the late valve timing though ... Hmmm. I had the car out today and it is fast. Winded it out to almost 6000 RPM in 3rd and it could have gone more. But with questionable valve timing not sure if it is at it's full potential ... Have a Comp Cams 270H grind and Comp Cams Roller tip rockers.
thats why they recommend to degree the cam....but yes it does happen and some timing sets have more then one key way to advance or retard the cam
Maverickgrabber made a good point--lots of timing chains have grooves on the crank sprocket not only for "straight up" but also for advanced and retarded (usually marked as "A" and "R"). Did you make sure it got set to the dot on the crank with the woodruff key straight up?
dmhines, It might be that your dampner has slipped. The crank key should be at 12 o'clock at tdc. All cams have overlap - the intake valve always begins to open before the exhaust valve is closed. If there was no overlap your RPM would be extremely limited and so would your power because the open exhaust valve actually helps pull in a fuller charge of air-fuel mixture. The only way to tell if you are at top dead center is with a degree wheel and a positive stop on the #1 piston. Rotate the engine by hand until it is stopped by the stop - then rotate it the other direction until it stops. Half way between the two will be TDC. Using the data sheet that comes with your cam and a dial indicator you can find the TDC for your cam and when both ar there you can use off-set keys or offset bushings or multi-keyed gears to get the exact setup. In most cases the cams are pretty close and so are the cranks - dampners fail all the time and pointers are almost never accurate. PaulS
if the lower radiator hose is on the drivers side, the damper and pointer should meet on the passenger side, and vice-versa. sounds like your pointer and damper arent co ordinated with each other. did you mix and match engine stuff? if using stock dampner then must find correct one for engine setup
I think all is OK .... The aftermarket fluiddamper has markings corrosponding to a driver side timing pointer. Obviously Mavericks have passenger side pointers ... Thank you for everyones concern ..
There are a lot of things going on - especially when old and new and stock and high-po parts get interchanged. I'm not sure what particular components you are working with. I'll throw out a couple of not so obvious things that I have found. Sorry if you already know this or have checked. Agree with comments about the cam degree part. Check with Comp Cams Tech Line on the 270 cam. Some of the "broadline" street cams are ground with a few degrees of retard cut right into them to improve low end torque and throttle response. Also, Ford did some weird advancing and retarding of the cam through the crank key and/or the lower timing chain gear on the "385" series engine for emissions requirements. I do not know if this thinking transferred into the small blocks or not? Like I said - something to look into. I built a 429 once that wouldn't rev past 5000 rpm because I got real un-lucky with my choice of parts. The cam was like 15 degrees retarded when I finally put a wheel on it. Cleaver
I ran into that, one time also, but don't remember what engine, 302 or 351. Had to either get an early model timing set or a three way keyed one. Was an emission deal and think the keyway was offset on the crank gear for it but don't know for sure. Degree wheel is the only positive way to install a cam for maximum performance. Just a thought on our country's fixsation on China and getting most everything made there, who knows where the keyway is cut in any of the timing gear sets. Quality has been dropped for price and quantity, course most people nowdays are mechanically illiterate, so the companies are taking advantage of it. Sorry to ramble but am tired of wasting time and gas on many trips to stores, trying to get the right part or one that is not defective. Jeez, but I am crabby this early in the morning.
any ford engine (302/351/429) newer than 1972 has the cam timing retarded by means of the bottom crank gear. cut emissions and power drastically. for performance you should be using a pre 1972 timing set. but as far as i know, all the crank keyways are in the same position. they didn't change the cranks, just the bottom gears.
I recently changed out the stock cam for a "B" cam that I had lying around. I also put on a new timing chain and gears in my 5.0 (1993 engine, AOD, 2200 stall converter). From what I could find on the world wide web, the cam has 4 degrees of advance built-in. Also, I used the "A" (advanced) setting on the crank timing gear, for a total of 8 degrees. Here's where it gets embarassing: I'm not sure if this is the best for track e.t. or if it's best for street driving. :confused: What would you guys say is the best combination for e.t.? (I might be going back in as there is an oil leak at the intersection of the timing chain cover, block, and oil pan.) Thanks, Rick reference Ford Racing cam specs by letter designation: http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=899
