Took kickdown lever off YEARS ago. The new vacuum modulator is adjustable. It kicks down just fine when I drive it in D. Most of the time, I use my floor shifter to go through the gears.
Yeah I have one of his ol yellar trannys sitting on my bench waiting for my custom built 4,200 stall 9 inch converter to get here and my engine then we will give it a test.
Trying to get a job in Bend, Oregon, so maybe I will be close enough in the next few months to get a decent rebuild.
Well then you will only be about 500 miles from Paul. Is the job going to be a permanent thing? Just about all my family lives in the Bend area.
If it happens, I plan on it being permanent. Hasn't happened yet... How is it around there? Is it worth selling everything I have to move and start over again.
The modulator reduces the pressure when it isn't needed. If you remove the modulator you will need to block the valve in the High Pressure position and then you can let the transmission shift from 1st to 2nd at around 50 mph and into 3rd at somewhere near 75 - 80 mph. (the 2-3 shift is controlled by the governor if the modulator is locked in the high pressure position. If you keep it in the low pressure position you can cause slippage in high load (full throttle) shifts..... You can modify the valve body to offer manual 1-2 shift and 3-2 shifts at any RPM but the 2-3 shift requires a manual valve body to have complete manual control. That requires a lot more mods to the valve body - and a new separator plate design. The modulator is a great way to get soft shifts when you want them and still get tire spinning shifts when needed. I am not going to get into the "downshift lever discussion again - it has all been said before and it comes down to if it wasn't needed then Ford would never have spent all that money installing it and the hardware associated with it.
I didn't get rid of the kickdown just for kicks (hehe, get it, "kicks"). My intake is the Torker289 and it sets the carb at an angle and a bit higher than normal, so the kickdown rod was worthless at that point. Paul, once again, thanks for chiming in. Your knowledge is highly respected :Handshake
I think I had the same problem as you. My intake causes the carb to sit higher than stock and the linkage is a bit forward from where it's supposed to be. I was able to correct it though. I'll try and get you some pics... I bent the lever upward a bit, then took a flat piece of metal, (it was one of those things you put on valve cover bolts, to spread the pressure) I trimmed it down with a grinder, drilled a second hole, and bolted it to the end of the kickdown rod to lengthen it. Problem solved... I definitely prefer driving the car with that lever in place and functional. Edit: Pic added
I honestly do not notice a difference in driving with or without the kickdown lever. If I drive it in D, and stomp it, it always drops to 2nd gear. I use the adjustable modulator to control at what rpms it shifts when in D. Most of the time I shift through the gears manually.
if you end up moving here, you could tow your car up to one of the meets next year and then bring back a yellow tranny with it or if you have to get it sooner, 500miles aint bad for an awesome tranny! i'm planning on putting in my 3-4 week notice to paul next month so i can get mine rebuilt!
Matt, I was just thinking about you. So when do you want it ready? Drop me a line with your phone number and I can call you - I have free long distance so it doesn't cost me to call. If you have the same deal you can reach me at my number listed below. 206.725.0881
