I have done the cam change, and am putting the distributor back on, but also want to run an oil pump prime just before startup. I bought a 1/4" priming tool, but in is too BIG for the oil pump. But, it is the same size as the socket at the bottom of my distributor. Does the distributor run the oil pump, or is the pump driven by another source. I have 55k miles on a mostly stock engine, and have approx 40lbs oil pressure when driving on the highway. I assume the oil pump is working. So what is my problem? PS--I took one of those screwdrivers with the replaceable socket heads and it fits right on the oil pump, but this is smaller than the socket in the priming tool and the distributor. May have to make my own priming tool, but want to make sure that the oil pump works after startup.
There is a drive shaft that goes between the oil pump and the distributor shaft. Cam drives the distributor and the shaft turns and drives the oil pump. Priming tool should fit right onto that driveshaft to run the pump.
Does the distributor fully seat? Did you just replace the cam and left the rest of the engine intact? Did you use lots of Cam Lube like you are supposed to? If so there really shouldn't be any reason to prime ... FYI .. the oil pump primer drives the oil pump drive shaft .. it does not insert into the oil pump itself ... I assume you mean the primer tool is not fitting on the drive shaft?
The primer tool and the distributor are the same size, but the size of the screwdriver bit that fits the oil pump is smaller. Therefore, the distributor is larger than the oil pump shaft. How could the oil pump have been working [grammar?] if the distributor is not fitting the oil pump? Recall, 40psi, so I have decent oil pressure. I was thinking something else drove the pump, since I get good oil pressure. Should I replace the distributor, even though I have used it for over a year? Should I replace the oil pump...maybe it is not stock and doesn't fit the distributor? Help!?!?
302 uses a 1/4 inch drive ... 351W uses a 5/16 inch drive ... I think you have the wrong primer ... Not sure how the problem you are describing could happen if you did not change the pump, pump drive or distributor ...
Hold up guys...I started to read through all your replies, and decided to go out to the garage with verneer calipers. The distributor is 1/4" and so is the screwdriver bit. I checked the priming tool, which was supposed to be 1/4", but is measured at .310" which is damned close to 5/16" (.3125), the next size up. I think they sold me the wrong size primer, even though it looks the same visually, next to the distributor. That will explain why I had good oil pressure with the old distributor, even though I thought it was the wrong size. Thanks for the inspiration to do what I should have done in the beginning. For future readers, check the size. Even though the instructions in the package say it is good for Ford 302, it needs to be the 1/4" socket.
I already knew that, but thanks for the warning. Any suggestion of speed? Also, for first fire-up, any suggestions of setting the distributor timing, or any other suggestions, to make it fire up quickly without having to turn over alot at slow rpms? I have always had difficulty with having it start up the first time, crossed plug wires, usually, or distributor gear in the wrong groove. I have the plug wires numbered this time, and the engine is still lined up to top dead center, the pointer on the dampener is at 0' TDC, the distributor is lined up so I can put the cap on at #1. Should I put the cap on at 1, or turn it clockwise a bit, and if so, how much?
Here is some advice from a guy that ruined a brand new cam and set of lifters last summer. Screw that little packet of cam lube that comes with the cam. I bought an 8 ounce bottle and used at least half of it on the cam and all the lifters giving them a thorough soaking. Pour some gas in the carb so it fires immediately. Have the oil primed. Set your distributor to a couple of degrees BTDC. Get a good Ford Magazine so you have something to read. Start the car and keep it between 2500 and 3000 RPM for a minimum of 20 minutes - that's what the magazine is for. Keep an eye on the oil pressure and temp if you have guages. The car will smoke like crazy the entire time while the cam lube is burning off ... Thats OK. Change the oil after your cam break-in. It's good to have a helper as well to check for leaks and also fill your radiator since the water level is gonna drop when your thermostat opens ... Just keep those RPM's up the entire time .... Good luck ..
With the crank set at TDC compression stroke have the distributor rotor just a little clockwise from the #1 distributor cap terminal. Should fire right up and be within a few degrees of where you want it.
When you start turning the pump w/ the tool turn it as fast as you can... it'll start bogging down after it makes oil pressure. I usually run it for 10 or 15 seconds while bogged down to make sure everything is lubed.
OK, got it running, thanks to all the help from you guys. I got it timed to within 2' and primed the oil 3 times. The first time just to see if it worked, the second time I ran it until oil came out of the tops of the rockers, then one last time after installing all parts and ready to run. It started within 2 turns (ruhh-ruhh-VROOOM!). Ran it at 1500-2500 for 30 minutes, adjusted the idle down to about 1000, and took it for a spin for another half hour, but taking it easy. The only thing I messed up on was I put wads of papertowel in each of the intake ports on the heads, and must have forgot to take them out before putting on the manifold. For the first 30 seconds, I had flaming bits of paper coming out of the exhaust, and flying all around the garage and surrounding neighborhood. Scary, but after it all burned out, it ran fine. Hopefully, no permanent damage. PS-I turned in the priming tool I got from Hi-Lo ($40), it was 5/16". Went to the local hardware and bought 3 magnetized screwdriver extensions for $2 each (that use the plug in screwdriver bits) put them together, put it on the drill, worked perfectly.
