Ok so I have finally fixed the over heating problem and I have fixed the timing issues. The car now starts and drives perfectly. When I got home today I let the car idle in park for 15 min the temp never peaked 190. When I put the car into drive it suddenly bogged down and died... I am at a loss here. I am using an electric fuel pump located at the rear of the car. Could it be flooding it? I do not have a fuel pressure regulator, but when I tried to start the car again it started with out too much difficulty.
I looked all over but couldn't find anything in the forum. I installed a 347 stroker with new champion radiator. The only thing not connected is 1. the clutch cable 2. the oil pressure gauage (gauge itself is connected just not the portion that goes into the engine block cant remember what its called) 3. the water tempature gauge (same issue as oil pressure gauge). Additionally some bolts need to be torque to spec - 1. bolts on front accessories not to include the water pump 2. the four bolts connecting the transmission to engine 3. four bolts connecting engine mount to engine and the two bolts connecting the motor mounts to frame. 4. gap the spark plugs lastly I need oil and coolant added to the car and primed. I took the car to a ford dealership to have them complete this task they wanted $3,500. I thought that was way too much so I just had the car towed back to my garage. My question is with everything listed above what is a reasonable price to pay. what would be a good price to pay if I just finished the install and just had them add oil and coolant and prime and start the engine.
What pump do you currently have? The Ford dealer likely has no idea how to do what you want done. They priced it to scare you off. Most pumps require a regulator but some dont. What camshaft does it have? The dying could be a tuning issue.
William, I am thinking that the prolonged idling concentrated a lot of heat in the carb from sitting without moving. Was the hood down? Even though the coolant stayed below 190, without air circulation, all the conductive heat in the motor would be higher than normal.
I figured something similar and got a heat spacer for the carb that works fairly well. I am now trying to figure out a variable idle problem... the car will first idle at 600-700 rpm then after driving 30ish miles it will drop below 500 and idle rough. It is also intermittent and doesn't always happen....
I'll second that. Could be an good explanation for the problem after sitting idling for a prolonged time too. Spray some WD-40 at the vacuum hoses with the car warmed up. If the idle picks up speed, you found the problem. If not, you just made your vacuum hoses nice and shiny.
That is actually a really good suggestion... thanks guys! I will have to try that this weekend. A carb rebuilder was telling me my idle curcuit in my edelbrock might be clogged?
If not a vacuum line, try shooting WD-40 near where the intake and heads come together. Thinking maybe a manifold gasket. Again, if the idle speeds up/smooths out, you found it. If so, try re-torquing the intake first, might get lucky instead of replacing them. Torque pattern is usually innermost bolts first, and work your way outboard. Could be carb to intake gasket, but the times I have dealt with that, it worked the other way... ran bad until the car warmed up.
