Been tossing this around in my head for a while now.Going to pick up a front clip off a 94 stang in a few days gonna see how plausible this would be to mix with the maverick body if it measures out it should be light years ahead of the stang II susp swap. Anyone else had these dirty thoughts?
they are to narrow hub to hub and the cradle is to wide had on a year ago and thought the same thing you did
i was thinking of the fox one. 79-93. it should be narrower than the sn95. i would guess that it would need deeper offset wheels that the newer cars use.
the 1979 to 2004 is the same size they just changed the control arm length and geometry and other small things brad
How would this be better than using a Rod and Custom front end like Frank has that mounts very easily and Totally eliminates the shock towers? ($2,600 to maybe $2,800 ) Other than cost ?
I agree. This route looks like WAY more work. I hope to do mine one day but it will be a system like or similar to Franks.
I take it no one has the December '09 issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords? In the Fatman Fabrications add they list a conversion kit for $1995.00. It's what you are talking about doing using '79 - '93 struts, '94 - '04 Spindles and Escort rack & pinion steering. The add states that it gives a 2-3 inch drop. Here's the link to the page it's on: Strut IFS Conversion for Mustangs, Falcons, Fairlanes, and Torino Hope this helps, -Scott H.
They talk about how the Mustang II stresses the front structure in ways it was not deigned, but their kit does the same thing, maybe in a way that's even worse. The Mustang II suspension is in fact still putting the stresses up through the firewall of the car like designed, because the the fender aprons are what accomplishes most of that task and they are still intact and welded to the frame rails with the Mustang II suspension. Most kits even come with the plates to go over the holes left from the shock towers to further stiffen things up. It all kind of acts like a big C channel, which is going to be just as sturdy with or without the shock towers in place, as long as the void left from the towers is replaced with the plates. The stock suspension puts most of the force of keeping the wheel vertical into the the bottom of the shock tower with the upper control arm, with the top of the shock tower just supporting the weight of the car. The shock towers have still been known to crack even with all the stress being placed down very low in the strongest part of the tower. There are a couple of members here with this problem right now. That kit is moving all the stress carried by the stock upper control further up to the top of the shock tower, not to mention the fact that the longer strut simply acts like a big lever, multiplying whatever forces are at work there. I wouldn't run something like that without a good monte carlo bar, or more preferably, a triangulated shock tower brace, and keep a sharp eye out for cracks or deformation in the shock tower, but that's just me. Maybe I'm wrong, I have no real world experience with either, but this is just what comes to me through common sense, thinking about the way the suspension operates and how the front structure of the car is built.
it will work.i modified stock control arm to acept the sn95 ball joint,spindles and brakes.fatman fab sell the same basic kit.if i can just buy there steering arm kit it will work.
