Fuse panel for all my switched 12 V stuff . . .

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mashori, Oct 22, 2011.

  1. mashori

    mashori Member

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    It was getting pretty messy so I needed to clean it up. Ended up using a fuse panel to attach everything to. It came out pretty nice and some of the problems I was having and I guess I didn't know I was having are now gone.

    It all started after my nitrous didn't work so I knew I had to get in there and clean everything up.

    pulled the spaghetti out

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    we have a pretty good collection of wiring equipment so it really wasn't hard to get started

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    I took a fuse panel and attached the one side and brought one switched source from the ignition.

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    I just hung it up here with zip ties for now and will put it somewhere nice later.
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    Look at this horrible mess I had going on before. That's just not safe or functional. I cleaned it up real nice.
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    This is what it looks like after, nice!
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  2. mavgrab302

    mavgrab302 MCCI Florida State Rep

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    Looks great.... I have a fuse block for my add ons as well....
     
  3. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member Supporting Member

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    Good job! That nest looked crazy.

    So... why are you still lugging around that A/C compressor? Somebody has already stolen your heater box... :hmmm:
     
  4. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I hate to say this, but to be honest...Using wire-taps will cause problems later on down the road. The sharp edges that cut through the insulation are now making contact the wire strands. With road and engine vibration the sharp edges are cutting into the outer strands of the wire making a looser conection. With the insulation now cut and open to the elements the wire strands will start to oxidized and corrode making the wire less conductive and more brittle.

    Now you will have an loose, exposed, oxidized, corroded, and brittle wire clamped in the groove of a little metal piece with sharp edges.
     
  5. mashori

    mashori Member

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    I totally agree Jeff, I didn't make it clear but that was exactly what I was trying to get rid of. That pic of all those spliced connections is to show what a mess I had. That's pretty much all fixed now.
     
  6. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I'm glad that I miss understood you. I knew that you didn’t want to start cutting wires…again.

    For future reference here is a better way for anyone thinking about using a wire-tap connector. You can use a barrel connector or if you need a quick disconnect use a bullet connector. Dielectric Grease will keep the oxidation at bay. Be sure to use shrink wrap on the wire side of the connector.

    Note: I should have had the double wire (feeding the device) on the male connector and the female on the single feed wire. This would prevent the "Hot" wire from touched a ground if you had to unplug the connection.

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  7. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Do I understand that u normally put the 12v/B+ on the male connector? I always put the feeder on female on the feed in case it comes apart .
     
  8. sportyfamilycar

    sportyfamilycar ElMaverick

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    looks good, nice work :thumbs2:
     
  9. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I always do the backwards of what I showed in the photo. The 12v+ gets the female connector. The device(s) gets the male. If I need to remove or disconnect the device then the 12v+ wire is protected inside the female connector from getting a ground accidently.
     
  10. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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    Ive been looking for this kind of info thanks for posting (y)
     
  11. diddie

    diddie Member

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    Did you make a wiring schematic of all that or do you have a good memory (I have no short term memory myself :beerchug: not sure why though!)
     

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