General Consensus, big problem

I am looking to purchasing one of the (3) headers listed. I went from expensive Sanderson headers, contemplating the new Thorleys' (shorties) down to these for just at $100. Another reason for the drastic change from superior to mid grade is I am not totally sold on paying a lot extra for ceramic coating for anybody's header. The coating seems to be on average at least $250 more than a standard header. I have been to MANY shows and have even seen guys (really nice cars) run headers on cars with no coating/paint (bare).

I have been researching this on the forum all morning (have a HEADACHE now). Looking at:

Flowtech header FLT12100
Dynomax (Walker) header WLK-85112
either the Hooker 6901, or 6110
hedman 88400 (does this one generate too much heat inside being that the collector points directly at firewall)

Have a moderately built 302, 1970, totally sleeper car, and want to keep the column shift. Car has no power steering. All of these are approx. the same price +/-. I am looking for the one that will provide the best fit without any mods (other than dinging pipes if necessary).

What's up??? Help me decide please.

 

Most Of Us Have Hooker 6901

 

Forgot to mention, the Dynomax is the old Blackjack header.

 

hooker headers work great..

and they fit nice


just get them coated with some paint or ceramic coating.. mine are rusting just after 3 years

 

Hooker 6901's seem to fit most often with no clearance issues with floor shifted cars.

 

Enough said... ordered from Jet Hot. Will get them on this weekend. Now to the ignition. I will open a post on that.

Thanks guys for all your help!!

 

Headers

 

I use the FlowTech's. Fit well and never an issue. They also come coated now, so a good deal. Not too expensive, either.

 

just went to summit racing and they dont list a flowtech for the maverick.

I kinda like the ceramic and the stainless steel.
Robert

 

For $150, i figured I would run cheap uncoated ones for 5+ years and then just replace them.

My dad ran headers on his 1976 Dodge van with 440ci for the entire 10 years or so he owned it and never had to replace them.

 

I agree with you on the coating.
It is snake oil IMO.

I have been playing with cars a long time, and got it from my ol man who has played with them twice as long. We have never needed coatings.
He has a set from 78 still on his Chebbie.
They should be removed and repainted properly every so often.
Probably depends on your climate and how you drive, but we have done his maybe every 10-12 years.

Every header company, I don't care who, uses crappy paint just haphazzardly put on in the production line. Most will tell you straight up to remove their paint and do the headers properly with good paint if you want them to stay pretty.

 

How do you do that? I just figured I would throw mine away when they rusted through, and spend another $150 on a new set...

 

It is pretty inconvenient, but works:

Strip headers to bare metal.
Clean with a solvent, like acetone, to remove all contaminants.
At this point you cannot get anything on the headers.
You cannot even touch with your bare skin.
The oils will fry the paint.
Don't even spray lubricants, like WD40, anywhere close.
That stuff can go airborne for 100 yds...
Hang the headers and paint with high heat paint.
Several light coats, allowing each to dry.
Still cannot touch the headers or get oils on them.
Install.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Allow to cool.
Now the headers/paint have been heat cycled.
Touch them all you want.

You can heat cycle them in an oven if you have one.
They must be heated to a high temp, then cooled totally before disturbed.

This is the right way to do it and have high heat paint last.
The header companies DO NOT do it this way.
Most will admit their headers are painted for "shelf life".

 

I wonder if the Hi-Temp powder coating would hold up?
Robert

 

The FlowTech part# is: 12100.