looking to get my car to run about a 12-13 sec 1/4, (possibly faster depending on what is required), how much power should I build, gears, and how would I go about getting let's say a 302 (could be other, have quite a selection) to the proper hp to get the car down the track. I'll be starting with a clean slate, so I'm trying to figure out what I'll have to put into the block I have. It's a mid to late 80's EFI block, conveterted to carb, but that won't matter much as I don't plan on using all of the original motor. I have never built a motor for power, just have done a couple of rebuilds, using much of the same parts. I will be new into the whole drag race seen, been wanting to get involved for some time though, just looking for insight from veteran racers and such Thanks Shaun
Shaun, I bow to the hot-rodding gear heads on here, but you should be able to get there easy enough. My advice deals mainly on how to get the h.p. to the ground. You'll need to run drag radials (at least) and maybe some type of Cal-Trac device. Depending on how much hp's you'll be making will determine if you need pos-traction. Good luck.
how do I get a meager 150 hp at best 302 to get the power to the tires first?, and if I do gears, the car will be getting some sort of limited slip unit, for sure
I used a roller block 5.0, added forged 11:1 pistons, FRPP X-cam, stock unported F3ZE gt-40 heads with proper springs, crane energizer roller rockers, Edelbrock performer RPM, holley 650 DP, DUI/hei ditributor, MSD 6, transgo stage 2 shift kitted C-4 with 2500 stall, 4.11's, 29x10.50-15 slicks in a 2900lb car with tuned chassis, ran 12.008 @ 116MPH. in three years has never ran a 13, always in 12's. keep in mind that the "magic #" as far as most safety equipment goes is 12.50, any faster and you better start looking at getting SFI approved parts or you may be asked to leave a track, or at least warned and given two weeks to comply. IMO better to start with that stuff and do it right once.
If its going to be strictly a race car.......weight, weight, weight..... Strong 302 + sticky tires + correct gear + open exhaust - weight = 12's. (easy)
You guys are giving me some hope. My only advice is to start with a car that doesn't have much rust or need body work, which you probably already have. Body work wastes time and money that could be spent going faster at the track. One thing that most of the newer Mustangs and ricers have on the Mavericks is no rust to deal with. Oh yeah, also it seems that a quick way to get horsepower nowadays is a supercharger, nitrous or turbo. Although for Mavericks I think that naturally aspirated is "tight" (heard that on Pimp My Ride tonight). -Erick
I was hoping to build it for street/ weekend trac driving, maybe the goal is too fast, but as long as I have a direction to go, I'm open to possibilities. Power adders are out, too many people just bolt crap on, I want to build mine, maybe I'll get my hands on a mill by then so I can do my own machine work as well Thanks for the help so far guys, I'm sure there will be many more questions, think I'll rip that 302 apart this weekend Shaun
shaun, remember that at the track if you bracket race, it's not always the fastest car that wiins. it's the most consistent. what track are you going to race at? i think that if you want to get into the low 12's and keep it for the street the easiest way would be to stroke the motor to 347 and get a decent set of aluminum heads, decent intake and carb, a cam and some headers, also a set of gears and a locker for the rear and some traction bars. when your at the track you'll also need a good set of track tires. check with your track to see what is legal for the class you're going to run. 13.99 or quicker needs a helmet and driveshaft loop. you don't need any other safety equipment until you reach 11.99 or quicker. then you need a roll bar (as of jan 1,2005 that changes to 11.49 if you use dot street tires), 5 point harness, and safety jacket. the next bump is into the 10's. then it's a whole new ball game. nj's tracks are pretty close to sea level, island is 520' and englishtown is 65'. if you have any questions about the rules just ask. i have the nhra rule books here. how ever tracks difer on class rules. some tracks street class is limited to 13 seconds and slower, some let you go as low as 12. some you can use slicks and others you have to have dot approved tires. there are some good dot approved tires that will hook you up. i use the m/t et street radials. good luck. p.s. i used to race at island dragway about 40 years ago. wow i'm getting really old.
wow, how did you guess Island and e-town, you must be from around here They require helmets at any speed at the tracks I've been to, had to wear one in my high 16 sec 4 banger ranger at test and tune. I was just looking to get the car running a pretty respectable speed, the actual bracket isn't too important
shaun. i was born and raised in montclair, nj. that helmet rule is just what i was talking about. nhra requires the helmet faster than 13.99 but the local track requires everyone to wear one. really not a bad idea. where in nj is clinton?
Build a 302 with AFR or TFS twisted wedge heads,10:1 compression,about a 550 lift cam,victor intake,780 carb.Go with 3.73 gears,C4 w/3500 stall.This combo in a friend's '85 mustang (that never really 60 footed too well)went 11.90's all day,ran on pump gas,through the mufflers.The key to HP is basically...good cam,killer heads,and as much compression as you can stand.Build a good bottom end,but it doesn't have to be high $$$.Polish the stock rods,buy good forged pistons(like Ross or J&E)and maybe a stud girdle if it reaches much beyond 500HP.ARP rod bolts are cheap insurance as well as head studs.Racers I've talked with say the twisted wedges are the best flowing heads up to 550 lift for the $.Beyond that and you might check out the AFR165's.I'd run a stealth on the street but the combo in the mustang did give up 4 tenths with the stealth vs. the victor(still ran12.30's)but that victor really woke it up down the track!About 400 HP should easily put a Mav of any year in the 12's,provided the trans,gearing and traction is up to snuff.
