Got the motor in!

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Grabber5.0, Aug 1, 2004.

  1. Grabber5.0

    Grabber5.0 Gear-head wannabe

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    Been too long coming, but it's sitting in the car! Not looking forward to installing the headers.. some of those bolts seem impossible to get anything on.

    The front of the car is sitting pretty high at this point... I don't think the stuff I still need to install is going to lower it enough for my taste.
     
  2. MaverickGrabber

    MaverickGrabber MaverickGrabber1972

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    the frontend will be lower in a few days the springs will go back down
     
  3. Maverick Guy

    Maverick Guy Maverick Enthusiast

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    Matt, you are one step closer! (y)
     
  4. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    WTG Matt. Keep on keeping on. (y)
     
  5. Grabber5.0

    Grabber5.0 Gear-head wannabe

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    Thanks guys :) I hope the springs settle... they've been in the car for a few weeks now, without much weight on them, hopefully the motor will make them settle. I have heard a couple people say they don't always settle.. we'll see. :D
     
  6. Wes

    Wes Maverick Police Dept.

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    I'm glad you're making more forward progress. You seemed so frustrated at the Roundup about the status of the car. Keep it up, dude!! (y)
     
  7. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    looks good. i like the valve covers. they sure get a lot of second looks at the track.:clap:
     
  8. dmhines

    dmhines Dixie Maverick Boy

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    Are they aluminum heads and intake? It doesn't look like you installed new springs so don't plan on the settling. The lighter weight aluminum may mean your gonna have to cut a coil. ...
     
  9. riporter

    riporter Member

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    Lookin good Matt... you might try hex head bolts on the headers...not sure what type of header your putting on but the Hookers bolted on well with these types of bolts. I also learned that you cant bring them up tight to the head with one bolt...you have to get them all started and tighten them all gradually...hope this helps...Good Luck.
     
  10. courier11sec

    courier11sec Member

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    Matt don't forget after you break in your engine to go back and retighten the headers. then do it again a week later, then once more a week or so after that.
     
  11. Grabber5.0

    Grabber5.0 Gear-head wannabe

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    I have to tighten my headers every week?! :eek: Oh wait, now that I'm done typing this I reread your post and got what you meant. Riporter, I was thinking that about the socket-head bolts, is that what you meant or do you just mean regular hex heads. The headers had most of a set of bolts with them when I got them, with small hex heads, but they were pretty rusty, I want stainless. They have those round socket-head bolts at the hardware in stainless (at about a buck each... ) I thought I might use those in some of the holes.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2004
  12. riporter

    riporter Member

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    Sorry Matt...by hex head I meant Allen wrench, makes them very easy to tighten, I put some anti-seize on the threads when I put them on and they have stayed tight thus far.
     
  13. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    damn that looks good. Is that an older block or a newer roller?? What headers did you decide on?? exuse my absence!!!

    I remember those valve covers up for sale some time back, they all sold out didn't they?
     
  14. Grabber5.0

    Grabber5.0 Gear-head wannabe

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    Thanks for the positive feedback.

    I wish I knew what kind of headers these were, got them with a parts car, and they had been on the car. Regardless of what what type of bolt I use, access to the bolts on the backside of each tube is going to be difficult, because the tubes start curving back immediately. Don't be surprised if I start looking for a set of Hookers or Hedmans when I move this motor to the Grabber.

    The springs are not new per se, but they are new to me, and have been off of a vehicle for at least a couple years. I have been told by some that they may or may not settle for that reason.

    Oh yeah, Jeremy, the block was marked a 90, has an E7 casting number, so my research told me it could have been used anywhere between 87 and 91 or so.

    As of the Roundup, the Maverick Connection still had a couple sets of those valve covers left. I know Chuck sold the ones he took to the Roundup with him, but I got the impression that he had a couple more sets.
     
  15. Sam M.

    Sam M. Just a nobody

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    Matt, a tip an old wrench-turner gave me once: Since headers tend to leak at the head, use a hacksaw or similar cutting tool to make a cut in the metal that joins each tube together. Saw all the way through each one, making each tube independent of it's neighbor. This is so that when you bolt the unit to the head, each tube can seat itself better, and this will decrease leakage.

    Sam :)
     

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