To get the optimum compression ratio out of my 250 six-cylinder with new Aussie head, I acquired a NOS Ford replacement steel shim head gasket that has a compressed thickness of .024 inch. It has been ages (at least 30+ years) since I've installed a steel head gasket. What is the best way to install that and insure a good seal? Do I use a gasket coating (Copper Gasket)? Do I re-torque the head bolts after so many miles? Any tips and hints are appreciated.
I would like to know also. I am gambling to say use the copper spray. That's what I would have done so I need the answer too... Did you ask the fordsix guys? By the way, you got a link to that site?
Asked on Ford Six and haven't heard anything. Not as many on there as here, plus my trust level is greater over here. Link is http://fordsix.com/forum/index.php
i just pulled the head off my 250 last night. it didnt look like there as any sealer between the block and gasket at all but the gasket is stuck to the head pretty good. i'll go peel it off and see whats in there
The best coating is silver/aluminum or copper spray paint. Two coats on each side of the gasket (let each coat dry completely). Then place the gasket on the engine, followed by the head(s). Torque all bolts in sequence to 30 foot pounds, back them off completely in sequence. Tighten to 20 foot pounds in sequence, and insequence tighten all the bolts in 10 pound increments to the maximum recommended torque. After the engine warms up and cools back down (following your cam break-in) retorque to max spec. After you have run it and let it cool down twice retorque to max specs. After that it should be good for as long as you do not overheat the engine. If you do overheat the engine remove the heads and replace the gaskets with the same procedure. NOTE: this process has been used successfully since shim gaskets were invented and it has always worked. Back before they had printed gaskets it was common to use paint (with high metal content) as the only sealer. It was not hard to clean up like "Gaska-cinch" and "Permatex" and it sealed better.
I use high temp aluminum paint..... It works on high horse power turbo Neons I have built for the local Fast and furious guys.
dont forget Always use new head bolts! The old bolts have already been stretched to there useful limit, the bolt will bottom out before the proper torque is reached. If you use a good quaility gasket you shouldn't need any kind of sealant. Your not running a turbo are you? In the old days most people didn't use new bolts. That's why they had sealing problems. Never loosen a bolt that's already been torqued their meant to be tightend once, that's it.
I disagree with that. While some engines do use one time use head bolts, not all of them do. Many can be reused several times until the maximum stretch level has been attained. The only way to know for sure is with a bolt stretch gauge that most of us don't have, but a good machine shop will have. It wouldn't hurt to have new head bolts or studs, but as long as the old ones are in spec, they can be reused.
This thread has been up 10 days, had 120 views, and only one real answer to my questions. It it obvious that the days of using metal gaskets are so far gone that most everyone that has viewed this thread has either forgotten like I have or has never known. Everything else discussed, I already knew. Paul pretty much stated what I remember from the '70's. I'm now 99% confident how to install the steel gasket.
well.... I'm talking about bolts, not studs. Yes you do check studs with a stretch gauge. Bolts however, once torqued, are then e-long-gated. Yes you can use the same bolts, I have, but that's only because I was broke. If you have the money, its best just to buy new bolts.
I just saw the thread, Use the spray Copper Coat, At least that is what i use on plain steel gaskets. As far as the bolt stretch thing, Only a bolt that has been over torqued is elongated, Bolts are made to stretch, That is how they do their job. I have a extra block that i use just to torque NEW bolts down. I put the head gasket on and torque the bolts to proper torque and let them set for several hours, Next i loosen the bolts completely off and re-torque, I do this three times. When the bolts go on the motor they are intended for i only torque one time. Have never had a failure. P.S. I'm not talking about the torque to yield bolts that are only good for one use. I only use ARP bolts.
