Hi all, I just finished replacing all my lifters because the old ones were completely frozen (all of them!) due to the old style "posi-stop" studs (heads are milled). I bought a Comp Cams kit to make the valves adjustable, and i adjusted them the way i typically do--remove all lash and turn 1/2 to 5/8 turn tighter. Something's still not right however, so i'd like to try adjusting them with the engine running. I bought some rocker arm oil stoppers and i know the trick with an old valve cover (cut the top off), but i'm not positive EXACTLY how to adjust the valves. I've heard to tighten them until they start to clack and then back off a certain amount. Can someone go more in depth with me? Thanks!
Valves Was wondering if you are running a stock cam profile or aftermarket? Also what heads? Used to do the lash on GM cars running and get a good oil bath even with cut out valve cover or oil stoppers. Have found that on all the small block Fords, it works well to get each cyl on TDC according to firing order and then adjust rockers. With aftermarket hydraulic cams with some significant lift and no 360 degree marked damper, it seems to work by turning engine by hand until one of the valves is at it's highest lift and then adjust the other by using a .005 feeler under the rocker and then turn it down just a 1/8 turn more. Do not have the lifters fully pumped up, let sit awhile before doing. Mark each rocker with chalk that you adjust so you know which ones you have done. Sounds like maybe you may have a pushrod problem, too long? Check to see if rockers are centered on valve stem at max lift and are not hitting spring retainer etc. First attemp at cam switch in a 302, I did as you did and cranked the nuts down to the stops. Car ran as if it had an anchor dragging, put some posi loks on the studs and set valves as I have described and the little engine came to life. Still have them on the street Mav. With stock cam and heads follow the mfg. recommendations. Doing it with the engine running is about like you said, tighten down until the click just stops, I perfer the other method myself but anyway you look at it, to tight a valve lash will kill the engines performance and too long a push rod will stick the lifters as well. Good luck and never give up, Henry didn't and look what we got, a bunch of great Ford's.
Old Guy, I just upgraded my cam and put new lifters in to boot...that's why i want to make sure i get everything adjusted right. The cam is as follows: 222 in/ex. and .498 lift on both I adjusted the valves the way i usually do, remove all lash and go about 1/2 turn more, but i still have some tapping and a slight stumble which i do not believe is carburetor related (based on several different carburetors and thousands of combinations). I have the stock pushrods out of a 1980 302 motor, and the heads are 1970 351W. The motor is a 1980.
