I need to order a converter this week so I can slap it on my newly freshened-up C-4 and put my car back together next weekend. I figure I need something in the neighborhood of a 2500 stall given my cam, current and future mods. I'm looking at three possibilities: B&M Tork Master 2400 Hughes Street Master 2500 ACC "Night Stalker" 2200-2800 Besides "you need an UltraStrip NitroBomb Bastard Bandit 9000 they're only $3500" or "I don't trust Ebay so you shouldn't either" can anyone offer experience or advice on these? I do find it interesting that the ACC one advertises 2200-2800 and the other "name" brands I've actually heard of specifically say 2500 or 2400. Is this because the cheaper brand is being more realistic about the variability on these things based on the application, or because their quality control is nonexistent and they're covering their a$$es? Has anybody here actually used an ACC converter? The price is right and they seem like they do a lot of business... Would I be paying for the name if I go with the B&M or the Hughes? I've heard mixed things about B&M converters and this is their entry-level performance converter... I've heard next to nothing about Hughes except that it's a respectable brand. I'm going with a 10.5" bolt circle, small-bell converter because I figure I'll have more room for exhaust later, but I do have the bigger bell with matching flexplate. Is there any advantage to using the bigger one? Thanks!
I just put the HUGHES street master 2500 in my mav. I have only 11 passes on it so I dont know about long turm performance yet. I decided with HUGHES after talking to a few racing buddies of mine. My choice was based on that they said they were a good company with good parts, and also that they are in california so shipping back and forth would be cheeper than accross country like the others. I also looked at TCI but chose HUGHES
The stall speed depends on the amount of torque and weight of the vehicle. A big engine or a higher HP engine will spin the torque converter faster than a small or low HP engine. A heavier car will cause more drag and the torque converter will flash higher than it will with a lighter car. It is unlikely that any converter will stall at the exact speed that it is "rated" at with all the car and engine combinations that are available.
To pick a converter you need to share the weight of the car, the expected engine output, and the rear end gearing and if it is different, the final gear ratio.
It really depends on what type converter you want. Off the shelf will work in a mild street car, But if you are running Nitrous or Blower (or both) Then you need a custom (expensive converter). I abused a B&M 2400 holeshot for years, It never let me down. But this converter never was meant for the power i was putting Thur it. I got scared it might start BALLONING which no one wants. In the experience i have had with mine and my coustemers cars, You will get what you pay for. We have one car now running the 2400 Hughes, And so far all is well. (400 HP). One other of our cars, Found out this past weekend that his converter has started slipping (600+ HP). It is a Artt Carr. If you want a shore nu-ff converter give a call to ultimate converters. Lenny is a one of a kind guy, I have never worried or looked back since he built mine. The car with the Artt Carr ordered one for his yesterday. BUT BEWARE they are not Cheap. But a new crank and Block wont be cheap either. http://www.ultimateconverter.com/
Thanks for the info so far. You're right, I should have given more details. My car is mostly street and probably will be for some time. I do drive it hard though, and it will definitely be seeing track time this summer. Might even hit the bottle a little bit. (100 shot, max) Transmission is a C-4 with the Trans-Go Reprogramming Kit. Rearend is 3.00 but that's going away in favor of a 3.55 or 3.73 locker 8.8 from an Explorer as soon as I get the chance. Cam is a Comp 268H... Most of the engine details are in my sig. It's maybe 300hp on a good day, although "CamQuest" says it's higher but I just can't see that. Whatever it is, ballooning will never be an issue. Comp recommends a 1700-2700 stall for this cam. I want something I can grow into with my planned mods but isn't too overwhelming for the current setup, so that's why I'm looking at these three. Budget is certainly a factor. So a custom high-end converter would be an irresponsible way to spend my money and a definite challenge to convince my wife that I need it.
MY advice would be a converter with 2500 - 3000 stall since you are going to be using 3.73:1 and your car weighs about 3000Lbs (slightly more with driver) and a 100HP shot of nitrous near the top end. Your peak torque is somewhere around 3000-3500 I would think and a stall at 3000 would double that torque at the rear wheels. I hope you are getting some BIG tires for the back of that car. You will need a large auxillary cooler with an automatic transmission.
I have a hughes 4500 in mine right now. I did have a Hughes 3500 before. Hughes is an Arizona Company owned by Jim Hughes who is a well known bracket racer and National Super Gas Champion. I've never had a problem wih his convertors and they are easily rebuilt by them. He sponsors lots of races all across the country so I try to support him. Personally I like the idea that I can drive right up to the shop in Phoenix.
I would call these guys and talk to them http://www.ptcrace.com/ tell them what you have and what your wanting. I have ran their converter for years. Just another option
Great info everybody. Paul, yeah, I've got cooling addressed I think. Have a reasonably sized external cooler, and I'll be installing a trans temp gauge so I can be sure about it. My overall tire diameter is about 27" but they're 235 width. If I can't hook with those after I get a trac-lock then I'll have to look at other tires. I'll be pretty surprised though. I think I read on here somewhere that a '71 Grabber weighed 2700 lbs, but that was probably with the six cylinder and definitely without the driver, so you're probably dead-on with the weight. I'm not 100% sure I'll be running 3.73's, but I'm looking for at least 3.55's. Will mostly depend on what I can find... I figure a junkyard 8.8 from a 2000-ish Explorer will give me limited slip, disc brakes and good gears all for less than just gears and a locker would be for my 8-inch. I think I might not even have to shorten it, given the backspacing of these late model wheels I have.
The 65-66 Mustangs weighed between 2500 and 2750 depending on model and equipment. The Mavericks had the side impact braces, reinforced bumpers (after 72) and weigh more than you would expect. The only way to be sure is to put it on the scales. That way you can weigh it at the front first, total and at the rear. Then you can work to set it up for better traction on the strip. In SCCA we weighed each wheel because we had to be able to turn both directions and accelerate. Balance is important.
You mean... Turn? Like, right AND left?!? What a novel idea! Surely you didn't do that in a Maverick or a Mustang... What did you run in SCCA?
We ran an Alfa Romero in H class Long time ago. I just drove and helped in the garage where I could. That is what got me started into mechanics. Back then it was a lot of fun. Things have changed in the SCCA. It is more about the money now.
Well I think I'm going to order that Hughes 2500 from Summit tonight, along with a temp gauge sender and a dipstick tube to replace the one I FUBARed getting the trans out. Thanks for the help, everybody. Next weekend it will be on the ground again and chirping tires with every shift! Wish me luck...
