I can't seem to get enough travel on the shift fork. I've tried bleeding at the slave and at the master cylinder. I can preload the cluch and get it to shift in first but no reverse ( it grinds ) . It doesn't seem to me the slave is pushing out far enough. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks Its the one alot uses. CNC 305 push style
what pedal are you using? I was having your same problem until i moved my pedal bracket to allow more pedal travel. I thought for sure i had enough pedal and blad the damn thing for 4 hours. i finally drilled one new hole 1/2" higher and tilted the pedal up a little more and it was all good.
Im using stock pedals. And right now i removed the push rod and had my wife push the clutch pedal. The piston comes all the way to the end but when she lets off the pedal i can take my finger and push it back another 3/8 or so.
I read in the internet a guy said to hook a hose up to the bleeder (on the slave ) and the other end of the hose to a small oil can ( pump style ) and open bleeder up and pump fluid in from the bottom to get all the air out . Anybody ever done this ?
Not exactly. What I have done though is put a vacuum hose on the tip of the slave bleeder and drop the other end into a bottle with fluid in it. Make sure the end is always submerged in the fluid and pump the pedal.. Obviously you make sure you don't run out of fluid at the master/resivour..
I used a hand vacuum pump to bleed mine. They are about $35 at the autoparts stores. You hook it up to the bleeder and just suck the fluid through the system while making sure the reservoir stays filled. A tip I got from Bryant was to loosen the master cylinder and tip it so the the end with the line output is pointing up. this helps get the trapped air out of the master cylinder. If all the bleeding dosnt help then you may need to get more throw onthe pedal to get enough pressure down below.
Sounds exactly like what I went through, have your wife push the pedal to the floor and hold it. Then loosen up the bleeder and push the piston all the way too the back. Then re-tighten up the bleeder, and bleed as your normally would. It sounds like you have an air pocket stuck in your slave cylinder and you are just bleeding past it. What he is describing here is exactly the same problem just with the MC instead of the slave.
yep this is what i was going to recommend. you have to look at the whole hydraulic system for high points that will allow an air bubble to be trapped. on the cnc master cylinder that i used and others have used, the outlet is in the center of the bore. if the m/c is pointed with the out let in the up position it traps a bubble in it. i had to have my m/c pointed straight up to get all the air out of it. so look at the angles of the master cylinder and slave cylinder and make sure they are angled so no bubbles will get trapped.
This is what I had to do on my Ranger. I used a small shampoo bottle with a tapered tip and a short piece of vacuum line. Take the clip off of the master cylinder top, but leave it just sitting on the cylinder. Have it about half full. Open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and using the bottle ( full of brake fluid ) slowly squeeze the fluid into the bleeder. This worked great for me with 1 try! I should have mentioned, you don't need much fluid and leave whatever kind of top you have on the master cylinder loose ( but still in place ) so fluid doesn't splatter onto your paint!
I'm lost I bleed many times and pumped fluid in from the bottom. I have adjusted it where it has a crap load of pressure on the fingers and it still won't go in reverse. I can turn off the motor and put it in reverse and it goes and I can move the car. The pedal is close to being all the way before the car moves.
what master cylinder did you use and where is it hooked up to the clutch pedal at? one member here on the board who used a stock pedal ended up puting a hole a little further down the pedal to get more travel. it does sound like you need more travel. you have 4 options to achieve this use a smaller bore slave cylinder use a bigger bore master cylinder move the slave cylinders push rod to the inner hole on the clutch fork move the master cylinders push rod further down on the clutch pedal.
Well its always something........Buddy of mine who works on cars came over to look at my shifting issue. He said the clutch was ingaging fine he thinks its either my 5.0 short throw shifters not adjusedt right or the syncos are bad in the tranny. It doesn't shift easy into the gears when the motor is off and he said it should. We are gonna try a stock shifter sunday and see what happens. I really hope thats it because i don't wanna take it back out. So close to driving after 3 years but yet so far away.
