how do you build up the c4 to handle a 302?

i saw some kits on the b&m website, but it didn't specify wether or not they make the transmission stronger...it did however specify the difference in shift...i would like both...lol. does b&m make a kit to make the c4 stronger? any links to one that does if b&m doesn't?

 

What exactly are you looking at. Shift kits are a great start to a strong trans.

 

buy B&M's Transpak Kit. with that kit it should handle about any 302 up to 300+/- HP

 

exactly what i was looking for...thanx a ton

 

I have a 302 and it is putting out 330Hp and 450 ftlbs will a C4 handle it? and what rear gear ratio is good for street/strip in the Mav.?

 

c4's can be built to handle quite a bit of power...it's more of a matter of your budget...i just wasn't sure what i needed to bulk up my c4...if your c4 was behind a 302 in the first place, i would imagine it would be ok...for now. is that power at the crank or wheels?

 

no the car had a I-6 and i took it out and put in a 302 but those numbers are at the crank. I had the engine built for me 6,500$ so far. And its all aluminum and cromed exp for the block

 

yea, i wouldn't push the engine until you built the tranny up...but i dont really know much...this is just my opinion. i would go for the transpak kit like mean maverick said...

 

Your tranny has four clutches in the direct clutch and three in the forward clutch. It probably has a "W" servo that will not hold that power in second gear. With luck you will have a "K" or "Z" servo but they are both too small to handle the load of any V8 much less one that produces torque like yours. You need to have 5 clutches in both packs and the smallest servo that I would recommend would be "R" servo. You will need to reprogram the valve body too to prevent a second gear flare or 2-3 lockup when you put in the right parts. The BEST reprogramming kit on the market is the TransGo 47-2 for 1967 - 69 or the 40-2 kit for 1970 and up. It will help corect the shiftpattern and overlap as well as give you full throttle snap shifts that will snap your neck. Valve body kits don't make a tranny stronger, they take out the slop and spongy shifts that the factory uses to keep John Q. Citizen happy as he cruises to and from work and the store. The only way to make it stronger is with better metal parts and the clutches stacked up to hold the torque. Better (modified) cooling and lubrication systems from inside the case to a big external cooler and increased pressuresin the tranny. Better friction surfaces help - especially when you have to live with a lot of heat build up. If you want a list of parts you need to make it work get the letter code of the front servo cover and the numbers off the tag on the forward servo cover and I will tell you what you need - or pay $600 - $800 for a rebuild and performance upgrade and hope you get the right parts.
Because it was originally behind a six I can say this much:
1 - a new hardened input shaft - $25 - $200
2 - new five clutch drums $20 to $180
3 - the -2 TransGo kit that fits $40 to $80
4 - a new front pump $15 to $200
5 case mods that include redrilling the cooler passages and drilling new oil passages. (machine shop labor only)1 hr. set up plus 3 to 4 hrs. $200-$500
6 - "C" or "H" servo and modifications to the restrictions to make them work properly $15 to $75 in parts and some machine work $100
7 - a 3000 stall converter $100 to $1200

You can use stock friction surfaces as long as the clearances are properly set and a flex intermediate band.
You aren't putting out enough hp or torque to need any special friction materials. Plan to run only Ford type "F" fluid in it and get a 30000 pound rated cooler and mount it in front of your radiator. That will give you a tranny that will last for five years if you race it every weekend but drive it as a daily driver all week.
Anybody who tries to sell you any other "Special" gear is jacking you. You can get a mail order tranny to suit your needs for as little as $600 plus freight, converter and bell housing or do it yourself if you are detail oriented and clean and careful. You will need a few tools and some precision measuring devices but for most of the work it is just hand tools and a drill. the prices for parts alone depends on where you go to get them.

 

here are some places that you can pick up a c4 , that can handle your hp an more. TCI, B&M,PA , just some places you can check out on line .I check out some from TCI that range from 300 to 450 hp,450 to 600 hp

 

You need to have a good rebuild on the trans. This includes a five disc foward clutch set-up as stated earlier. No need for a full blown race prep if you are just at the strip occasionaly. Put in a good shift kit and fair size external cooler. The clearance's in the rebuild should be a bit tighter than factory recommendations too. Drilling holes for faster fluid discharge, in the drums and shell, is very beneficial and I use nothing but Castrol type F in all mine, even powerglides. Put in an H servo and you should be good to go for a long time. Detail and regular maintenance is very important to these tough little gear boxes. A little more stall in the converter would be nice addition(2800-3000) but that is another whole subject. Gear ratio would depend on your tire size, power band of the engine, and 1/8th or 1/4 mile blast's down the track. Ideally, for street, would probably be a 3.55 but then on the strip it would suck. First time we raced the Mav with a similiar engine combo, we put in 4.11's and the car was a dog, using a stock valve body etc.(running on a 1000ft strip). Ended up with larger engine's and manual valve body c4's with 4.86 gear on 28in tall slicks. Would not be good on the street for obvious reasons. Maybe you could have a deeper gear installed in a spare center section, then swap it out before running on the strip. You will have to comprimise if driving to and from the track on that deal. And yes the 8in rear end will hold up fine, even with a spool installed for racing.

I have a 347 in my car, on alky, that runs close to 500hp(estimated) and use a very similiar C4 as I described above. No high dollar part's other than a billet servo and manual VB.(turning 6800/7000+ in 1000ft) Also shortened up a 9in rear to get a larger choice of gear ratio's, but still use stock Maverick 8in axles with 28x9in MT's slicks. Been in there for many years and still look good, the tranny come's out once a year for inspection and has very rarely been found destroyed. Maybe some new frictions and steel's and end play adjustment's and that is it. Usually put four to five hundred passes a full year of racing on it too. Big block's, and high HP and torque, with NOS set-up's, will need more mod's to the little bugger.

 

You might want to monitor the "how to hotrod your C4" thread. When I am done you should be able to build a C4 that will work well behind a 400hp small block. It takes a good book, some special tools and a lot of tedious detail oriented work but it really can be done by anyone who can rebuild a carburetor.

 

I went with a performance automatic C4 Street Smart Package capeable of handling over 450 HP The componets the package with are a 1. Street Strip Valvebody 2. 26 Spline Input Shaft that has been harden 3. A Pro Shift Servo 4 A deep Al pan 4. Case fill transmission 5. Gear ratio of 2:48 to 1:48 to 1-1 6. a cut Shift Lever 7. 6 Pinion planet 8. dip stick and locking tube 9. SFI approved Bell housing 10.11 inch torque converter flash stall of 2000 to 2800 rpm. the part number is listed under PASS26103. I got mine thru http://www.dougherbert.com/. This is just an idea to buy something new and maybe not have to worry abot it for a while.

 

So, how is it running?

 

i was looking at getting this trans what do you guys think?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI-511200&N=700+115&autoview=sku