I have no Power steering

Like it says. no p/s. I ran out of fluid and did idle the engine for some time. It did work until the leak occurred, I got the leak fixed ( 2 diffferent hoses) but now no p/s. I have re-(over) filled the pump. bullyed the steering lock to lock several times. No P/S. any ideas?

 

What hoses were leaking? The ones on the cylinder?

 

I am just shooting in the dark here, I don't know much about it...

Could the system need to be purged of air?

Is there a pressure or return valve between the pump and slave that may be stuck from sitting dry?

Could the o-rings in the slave be ruined and bypassing the fluid around the piston? Kinda like the internal seals of a hydraulic jack when they dry out...

 

P/s on our cars sucks most people remove them we are removing ours all it does is leaks!

 

The hoses that were replaced were the cooler return line and one of the lines from the control valve to the cylinder. Both were taken off and I will be checking those in the AM
I don't think there was time for the pump etc to dry out as it was only out of fluid for a few days.

 

I was just pulling ideas out of my hat, so to speak Bob.
I don't know what I am talking about. Just hoping to stir the pot enough that someone who does know says 'yeah, that could be it'...

Maybe the control valve is stuck?

 

Just get rid of it. Its really not to bad unless your in a tight parking lot. Even then its surprisingly easy.

 

I've had power steering before where you need to fill it, put the cap on, and then turn it fully each way for a few times and then refill it again.

 

One way to possibly test it ...

The line that looks like regular fuel hose is the return line. You might want to remove the end of it that goes back toward the pump, drop it into a pan, and see if it has fluid flowing through it. That would tell you that the pump was working. Be ready to top off the pump during this. These pumps work at about 2 gallons/minute.

I take it the pump isn't noisy...


I looked this up in my Mav/Comet Chiltons and it says among other possibilities ...

Low or incorrect fluid
Loose drive belt
Kinked hydraulic hose
Low pump output or leaks
Obstruction in lines
Pump valves sticking or out of adjustment
and it goes on to talking about mechanical steering, suspension, and alignment problem

I am guessing, too, that trapped air might be the problem. In installing a new pump the Chiltons says to refill fluid if necessary ... doesn't specifically state it, but sounds like air has to work its way out.

Are you doing this all on level ground? ... not nose-up? Nose-down might help.

 

When I rebuilt my car, I replaced all of the power steering parts, and I had a leak free system that worked just fine. The answer doesn't always have to be 'remove the entire system and throw it away'.

In my experience, air in the system will cause noise in the pump and perhaps some uneven assist at first, but a couple lock-to-lock cycles of the steering wheel takes care of it. This sounds to me like either there is a restriction in a line or the pump is no longer making pressure. I like the idea of removing the return line and seeing if you are getting any fluid flow...although the pump not working and blocked lines would produce the same result (low or no fluid flow).

Since it worked before you replaced the lines, I would start there. Remove each one and make sure neither one is restricted. If they seem fine, you might be looking at a pump replacement. You said it ran without fluid for awhile? Power steering pumps don't like this. I discovered this the hard way....

 

Could the small hoses on the control valve be crossed?

(And not to jack the thread, but where did you get your hoses, Bob? I can never find that return hose...)

 

to the best of my knowledge you can use a piece of rubber line and hose clamps for it since its not under high pressure. Thats what I did on my truck

 

You can get it at RockAuto.com for $8.50. Edelmann part #70656 Here's a picture:

http://info.rockauto.com/Gates/EdelmannDetail.html?70656.jpg

 

Cool, thanks. :Handshake

/hijack

 

No problem.

I should add that if you have a mid-1975 or later car that has O-rings instead of flare fittings, you'd want to use Edelmann #70737 instead.