So, I ordered a new 4bbl carb and intake for my '73 302. Right now everything is stock including the re-re-rebuilt 2bbl carb. The carb works a little better after the rebuild but I'm still not happy with it. What I have coming is an Edelbrock 1406 Performer carb with the 2121 Performer intake and all the extras (fuel line extender, kick down bracket, gaskets etc...) I know the basics of what I need to do to get the old manifold off but I wanted to know if any of you guys could give me some tips or pointers with removal and installation. You know, things I should make sure to do or not do. I tried to search for it but couldn't find anything. Thanks, Matt
A few things: use sealer around the coolant ports, & in the corners where the gaskets meet. The ports need a thin film to insure any surface irregularities get filled in, the corners, use a dab in each corner. Change the oil and filter afterwards to insure any coolant that gets into the oilpan gets removed. Mark where the distributor rotor is pointing before pulling it, also shake it as you pull it to insure the oil pump driveshaft drops out of the distributor shaft before it gets too high up to where it'll fall back into the oilpan (this is if someone installed the driveshaft without the metal keeper that prevents it from coming up as you pull the distributor)Note how the distributor rotor turns slightly as you remove it, it'll move in the opposite direction as you reinstall it, so you'll need to compensate setting the rotor for this movement. Use a torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts, start with the middle bolts and work your way towards the ends, crisscrossing side to side. Repeat the torque sequence as many times as it takes to fully compress the gaskets. If you know someone who's done this before, ask em to assist you in doing this. One more thing is to remove the 2 bbl carb studs from the 2 bbl intake and screw these into the heads, 2 per side in the intake bolt holes, these will be used as alignment studs in setting the new intake in place. Once the intake is in place, you can remove the studs and replace with the intake bolts. Use a good grade flat washer under the bolt heads, I like to get grade 8 or 9 washers for this, these will not bend and deform as the bolts are tightened.
Use the end gaskets. Many people just eliminate them and use RTV instead, but it's better to use the gaskets. Use black 3M weatherstrip adhesive ("gorilla snot") for these, with a dab of RTV just on the ends ("corners" of the intake manifold). If you're not in too big of hurry to drive the car, it's best to glue the end gaskets on to the block and let them sit overnight. This way, the gaskets cannot move out of place when you set the intake on the next day. As mentioned before, put a thin bead of RTV around the water jacket ports (not around the intake ports). "Gasgacinch" is good for gluing the intake gaskets to the heads and manifold. Make sure all surfaces are spotless before installing the new gaskets and intake. Use proper torque sequence and do not over-torque.
I haven't used the cork end seals for more than 20 years now. Run a nice bead of RTV along front and rear rails before you drop the manifold on. There is zero chance of a cork end seal slipping out this way and when you torque the manifold bolts you don't have to compress the end seals before the manifold gaskets.
You may want to replace the t-stat housing also. Check it for corrosion on the mounting surface. Sounds like a good combo for the stock engine.
The Felpro cork end seals have a self adhesive backing now, this prevents them from walking out. The only way I'd forego the end gaskets is if the end gaps were too thin to use em.
There's a reason the factory used the seals. There's also zero chance of seals slipping using the method I described.
I'm sure there's a reason but I don't agree with it. I've seen them slip out even after being glued like you described. I don't use a thermostat gasket either. Go to a good web site like ford Strokers and do a search on the topic. The pro builders don't use the end seals either. Just sayin'.
I never liked RTV...I seen it inside the engine where it doesn't belong. Use RTV in the corners where the end gaskets meet. I use Permatex #2 on the water passages. Be sure to look for the "FRONT" markings on the gaskets so they point in the right directions or you will have an over-heating problem.
I'm thinking that.. "zero chance".. is stretching it a little since its a mechanical thing. We all know what happens on occasion even to the best custom engine builders in the world.... but I do agree that your method works very well. Myself and others tearing my earlier builds apart can't hardly get the damned things disassembled after I get em' all glued together. lol And considering that many pro engine builders do the very same thing.. that's good enough for me. Kasse swears by the 3M stuff if you've got to use the end rails due to excessive gap. Here's the way I see it. Mfgrs(parts AND automakers) need to maximize profit while maintaining an acceptable image. This mass production process means that corners will be cut in some way shape or form. Then add the corners being cut by the builder, purposely or not, and the overlaps can lead to failures. Just like painting.. improper surface preparation and contamination is the leading cause of failure when it gets combined with improper preload/gasket crush. Take a good look at most of those china wall gaskets and then compare them across several various engines and custom builds. See and differences in the end gaps they are supposed to fill? Do they generally work for the bulk of rebuilders using them? Well of course they do.. but they usually don't go on "dry" either. And that reduces callbacks and warranties. But even after all that.. do they always work? Nope. My best possible advice to the OP is.. if you must use them?.. dope them up sufficiently to keep them locked in place. Because IMHO.. thinking that an ultra thin layer of "super adhesive" included on some "premium gaskets" will sufficiently lock them down within that extreme environment(heat, vibration, expansion/contraction, and both negative and positive pressure, while it gets constantly lubed up and chemically attacked at varying installed thicknesses).. is almost like thinking that wallpaper that comes pre-pasted from the factory is better than buying premium paste and applying it yourself. Night and day difference in long term quality and durability. In fact.. many gasket kits now inclkude oil resistant silicones rather than using the cheap and ancient "rope caulk/backer rod" style end seals that some have punched out in china by the shiploads. And I'm guessing that the silicone and packaging to keep it viable for improved shelf life is probably costing more than punched cork. They move forward because they have to and we pay more for it for them to maintain those margins. The basic reality here is that this particular tech is VERY VERY old and slowly dying off as the chemicals easily surpass them in long term and extreme environments. The newer hybrid rubberized one's do work better.. but it's still low budget type technolgy. All they really need to do is add a metal/plastic skeleton(like the oems started doing with intake gaskets and maybe even some type of crush sleeve)with various thicknesses available for proper installs across the board. Or better yet.. make them similar to the one piece oil pan gaskets. One last rhetorical question to finalize my point. If these gaskets work so well?.. why do the turbo and vacuum pump guys avoid them like the plague? No matter what method you decide to use though.. there are definate requirements and pitfalls to watch out for with any method.. or the wall seals will eventually fail.
you know there is a reason why the factory quit using the cork seals years ago... but its funny if you buy the kit for a 5.0 you get the rubber end seals that never slip off because they are shaped like an I beam and they fit over the channel.. and most of the time the kit is as cheap if not cheaper then the kit with the cork ones..... Guess what I am saying.. well more asking..is why is everyone arguing over 60 year old+ technology when the problem was solved and the solution for the problem was put into effect over 20 years ago... and they dont blow out in forced induction applications....
I have personally seen RTV sealant in place of gaskets fail. My philosophy is: If the factory used it, I use it. If the factory did not use it, then I don't. When using aftermarket components, use what the manufacturer recommends. I have never in my life seen a properly-installed intake manifold end-seal fail. Of course I completely understand why racers who are constantly removing & replacing parts would leave the seals out and just use a chemical sealant.
Be sure not to over tighten the heater hose fitting and crack the manifold. If it happens, you get to take it to the welder.
