OK as most here assumed we have bearing damage so a rebuild is in order, what I would like is to lay out what parts we have and ya'll have some fun putting together the best engine based on what we have. I'm not opposed to tossing any of listed parts and replacing with diff, only stipulation is not to exceed $3000 for the build. OK here we go: Edelbrock Top End Performer RPM package, here is link to the package: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/power-packages/guide.shtml Ours had the hydraulic cam/lifter set up which of course is wiped so ignore that being usable. Hedman long style headers, edelbrock performer 500 cfm carb (this is for sale btw as I know a bigger carb is in order) 302 stock non roller lower end, oh the heads have the 1.90 intake valve/1.60 exhaust, other than that it's what is listed in the power package. Edelbrock says that set up should produce 367 h.p. with a 650 cfm carb. FYI, changing to a roller motor whether a dog bone conversion or newer block with lift over what was in it (.496/.520) will require new valve springs but Edelbrock says they are good up to .600 max. with the new springs, of course new push rods will be needed. OK, all you gearheads here's your shot at the motor that goes in the Mav. we are going to use someone's build spec. from this little challenge. Ask any questions that I need to clarify. Thanks and lets have some fun Allow $5000 to include recommended stall and rear gears. Ford 8 inch rear, any of the additional $2000 can go to motor if rears and stall are covered for less. Headers are 1 5/8" tubes into 3" collector
I'd find a roller block, and start over. I wasted money doing the flat tappet engine in my Green car...I've bought two running 302 rollers, for less than $200, complete.
ok I figure that will be the most recommended thing to do......now what do I do with the roller block?
another question What year and/or what car is the best to get a donor roller motor from, it needs to bolt up to my exsisting C4 and our Mav had factory air which will be replaced, maybe I'm asking too many questions but I haven't done an engine swap in over 30 years and I don't need any oopps. Thanks and I appreciate all of yall's input without it I seriously would not be so confident about doing this just father/son, I would pay to have it done which takes away the main reason we started this.......the father/son aspect:Handshake
Roller? So I'm looking through the ad's for roller blocks just to get ideas and am I correct that the only difference in a roller and non-roller is that a roller already has the spider and dog bones with the two threaded holes for it? If that's the case that spider/dog bone kit is cheap and since the block is going to the machine shop how much would they charge to drill and tap two holes? can't be much at all, what am I missing?
I bought a 1993 Ford E150, it came with a roller block, and a AOD, they both needed to be rebuilt, but the van only cost me $150. I also bought a 1996 Explorer, for somewhere around $200 (I can't remember exactly) it came with a roller block, and GT40 heads, I sold the wheels, and sent the rest to scrap, and ended up with money in my pocket. Look on Craig's list, and find a motor some a Mustang guy is selling, decent 302 rollers are all over, or buy a pre machined block from Summit, and then add you own stroker kit. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-150110/overview/
If the retrofit kit isn't too expensive you may be money ahead using your current block. Since it is a fairly fresh rebuild it may not require as much machining as a worn out roller core.
Confirmation Yes I agree BUT are they the same, I'm getting information that a factory roller block has a taller lifter slot than a non roller and that somehow this will affect how much cam I can run due to the size of lifter that can be used in a factory roller vs. non roller, is this correct info?
Yes. The roller blocks have longer tappet bosses to accommodate the extra length the roller tip adds to the roller lifters. However, there are conversion kits available. A roller cam is worth about an extra 10-15 HP over a non-roller. Also, the firing order is different. A roller motor has the 351W firing order and uses a steel cam gear which requires the use of a bronze or steel distributor gear. Don't use a "hardened iron gear" which is only heat-treated to a certain depth and can fail under excessive use. In addition, a roller motor has a 50oz. balance factor and a non-roller motor has a 28.8 oz. You would need to buy a retro-fit flexplate to use with your C-4. Hope some of this helped, Eric
The lifter bores on a roller block are taller than the bores on a non-roller block. I don't know what the limitations are on the retrofit kit are. Perhaps someone else will chime in with the answer.
I think you are...over thinking ...this build...JMO we need to know...what do want out of this 302...before we can say...what to put into it... don't go the retro fit route...
If this build is still for your son, the "best" combination might not be to maximize the horsepower level for the parts you're working with. Just my 2 cents
The retro rollers need reduced base circle cams to run in non-roller blocks. Here's how it pans out when you do the pro's and con's. Roller blocks are already set up for factory stuff which is much cheaper than aftermarket conversion setups. Roller blocks can give you one piece rear seals. The roller blocks are thinner and weaker than the older iron. Not a big deal with this build.. but still something to consider if you ever decide to add more induction(rpm and power) later on down the road. 50oz setups don't handle rpm as well as 28oz stuff. On streetable rpm deals it's not a huge issue.. but weight matching and balancing becomes more critical for bearing life if/when you want to start spinning it higher. We all know that teenage boys LOVE to rev motors beyond the camshaft/springs recommended range. IMO, if the block you have is not damaged?.. any change of direction towards a roller block swap will quickly eat into your budget with boring/torque plate honing, line boring, decking/squaring, etc, etc. Short on time here now.. so I'll post back later on with my rec'd build spec's. I will say that an honest 400 horsepower is an easy task with the right camshaft in that combo. Plus, it'll have decent torque spread, fair idle vacuum and a longer lived 6,500 rpm redline.
go roller, a lot easier than building a retro block. tons out there for the picking, proven engine, easy to get parts.
