I just need to know what size of wheel studs i need to order the guy at the track says i need longer wheel studs the need to be like 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer then what i have. im just wondering what to order when i go in on monday. I am guesing i will need something like 1/2x20 and like 3 inchs long right? I have stock studs in the back for a 73 and i upgraded to disk in the frount i believe they are 77 spindles and disk. what i need to know is what is the hole size the studs go in or what do i need to tell the parts guy. Also i dont have a press although i may be able to get acess to one can i just start the stud with a hammer and put a bunch of washers on the stud and a lug nut and impact the stud in kinda like taking out a old rocker stud.
i need longer ones as well.. i am guessing... take off one stud.... take it to a parts store.. and have them get the same size diameter and 1/4 to 1/2 longer... then get acorn nuts.. so that they can see that the stud is longer than the nut.. is this how everyone does it?
go up above to the header. click on search and type in wheel studs. this'll bring up the threads on wheel studs. what wheels are you using?
I tried searching but im not up on wheel stud lingo and dont really understand what most of them are talking about like knurl and sholder ect. I and running centerlines auto drag wheels 15x8 on the rear and 15x7 on the frount. Right now with the stock studs amd acorn lug nuts you can see about 1 thread sticking out and from what i under stand i am going to need a stud that is about half and inch longer then what i have. I would like to not have to knock one stud out as some days this is my daily driver.
is one thread sticking out past the lug nut? if so your studs are long enough. nhra rule book says the studs must engage the lug nut by an amount equal to the width of the stud. example, if you are running a 1/2 inch wide stud it has to go into the lugnut by 1/2 inch, not past the the lug nut. if you go into pep boys or auto zone and look at a stud you'll see the knurl and shoulder. they are usually hidden inside the drum or rotor.
I believe the rule for stud length is that it must extend through the lug nut atleast equal to the studs diameter. Is that right? ex. 1/2 dia. wheel studs must stick out 1/2 inches from the end of the lug nut...
The ARP 100-7703 studs have the correct knurl .625 that you need for the rear. They are 3 inches long verses the stock 1 5/8 length. $12 per set of 5 at Jegs or Summit
no that's not right. general regulation 5.2 of the nhra rulebook states "the thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut must be equivallent to or greater than the diameter of the stud. length of the stud does not determine permissibility; length of the engagement between the stud and the hex portion of the lug determines permisibility.(example: a 7/16 inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16 inch)."
gotcha, so even if your studs are longer, they can still nab you if your lug nuts "threading area" is too short. so, is there any reg on the "through" lug nuts, like the ones that actually pass through the wheel itself? or do they just make those to you can achieve that engangement rule on bigger studs?
I have no idead but the track guy said i need longer studs i think it cuz a few of them dont even go out 1 thread past the lug nut they also found a tiny pin hole gas leak just infrount of my electric fuel pump i didnt even see. and i guess i also need a driveshaft saftey loop.
Thanks guys for all the help i decided to just pull a tire and drum off knocked one out took it over to the parts store they ordered me some ARPs for about $13 a set and they will be here on tuesday i couldnt believe how short the stock studs are there only a little over a inch long. these new 3.5 inch long ones are going to be obsencely long.
my front ones don't go all the way through the lug. the rear ones i had moser put them in when i ordered my axles. good luck. what et do you run? driveshaft loops are required if your quicker than 13.99 and using slicks. you can go to 11.49 without one if your running street tires. of course the track has the final say in all rules.
I dont have a offical track time they wouldnt let me near the track with the gas leak that was an easy fix tho.I do have a sweet new g-tech i dont know how good it is but its saying with my 100 shot of nitrous im running 13.5's to 13.8's i have two sets of the same rims for the back one has 255/60/15 MT ET Street Drag radials the other set has 275/50/15 BFG radial T/A's for the daily driving Man are those a tight fit they rub on hard corners but oh well they look good really fills out the back end. Im hoping to get a better time on a real track, and i guess the guy did say the drive shaft saftey loop was just a recommendation.
