loose starter (testing) Old guy; I looked today and I cannot drill on my bellhousing while it is still in the car. So I tried something different. It looks a little redneck but it might work and no one can see it normally . I know it looks close to the convertor bolts, but its not, it is actually outside the bellhousing....clearance is not an issue. This might be a cheap an easy fix. If not I will pull everything this winter and do some drilling. I know it sounded completely different when starting it * I am not suggesting anyone do this...I will report after a few trips to the track if the starter comes lose again or if there is any other issues with this set-up.
hope it works for you. dosen't one of the holes go all the way through? i'm pretty sure mine does. that's the one i put the locking nut on. haven't had a problem since. guess now that i said that i'd better check it before this weekend. hate to have to tell you i had a starter problem.
yes...I have not insalled a nut on the back of the "lower" mount. But the one's on the starter (top and bottom) have nut/bolt...and it still came loose. This was pretty cool: I just snugged the bolts, then turn on the buckle and watched it pull the starter closer to the flexplate.........(with a screwdriver) I engaged the starter gear and used a paper clip to check for clearance....once I got it were I wanted it, I tighten all 3 nut/bolts. Again ,it was amazing how different it (starter) sounded as it was turning the motor over. I will know quickly if it starts coming loose....it has such a different sound when that starts happening.
yep...I have always been told to check it that way....paper clip(straight part) should fit between the gears of the starter/flexplate with the starter engaged. 1/32 is what I am thinking
Do you think the inside diam is going to allow your fix to give any? Are you checking it periododically(spelling) to catch the movement?
I hope it does not move....I do not plan on checking it, I will know if it starts happening by the sound.
gene, do you have a pic. of this "gapage"? is this something you can see or would it just be a pic. of nothing??? ...frank...
mav 5946 - why arent u using a block/starter plate? i dont see one in the pics. that plate is what locates the starter. without it the starter will squirm away from the flexplate and loosen the bolts because there is about 1/16+ of possible movement. i have run as high as 14:1 compression, with the starter plate and split washers under the bolts. never any loosening problem. just my .02 if i remember right, if there isnt room for a paper clip between the starter tooth and flexplate teeth when they are engaged, they are too close to each other. but my memory might be off on that. and the wives tale never specified large paper clip or small paper clip. just a rule of thumb, i guess. if you push you starter away from the flexplate and tighten it and still have enough tooth engagement, you may get away with it. currently i am running an adapter plate without a block plate. i hold the starter away from the flexplate and tighten the bolts. i still have adequate engagement and the starter has never loosened.
Great. I hope it works for you, John. My problem is the TOP starter bolt. It comes loose and allows the starter to rotate away from the FP. I modified the top hole in the starter flange to make it a 'slot' and was able to rotate the starter towards the FP enough for full engagement. I tightened the pee out of the bolt and it has stayed put for a while - but I can tell it's backing out again (from the sound it makes during cranking). The first time I realized what was happening, a crack had propogated from the top threaded hole in the bellhousing outward and ruining my bellhousing. I have yet to try putting Thread Lock on the threads but I'm not too encouraged since that too has failed for you (and others). I'll do that before the next time out but my saga will continue I'm sure. Good luck with your Fix. Keep us posted.
Why don't you guys drill the heads of your starter bolts so you can safety wire them? This would prevent them from loosening up. You can probably buy the bolts pre-drilled and be good to go. Just a suggestion. Later,
John, if Henry Ford had not had vision then we might not have had the assembly for several more years....go for it buddy!
I had a car that had huge compression way back when. I gave up on keeping the starter tight, I welded the nuts on the bolts. That was 30 some years ago. Tom has the best advice in my opinion. Dan
Good thread and info, but seems more Technical than Drag Racing. Is there a reason you don't have the plate on there that covers all that up (not sure if it is the same plate that igo is talking about)?
My bad..I did not explain good enough The starter bolt has never came loose on me (since I bought the PowerMaster). The hole in the starter is larger than the hole in the bellhousing. Over time the "kickback" causes the starter to push away from the flexplate. Thats when I loosen the bolt, push the starter back toward the flexplate and retighten the bolt. What I really need is an small sleeve to slide in the starter hole to were the bolt will be tight in the starter. I think that would fix my problem.
