Hey all, I just purchased the paint for my 71 comet gt, I choose a silver metallic, I have painted a few cars, That came out respectiable for drive way paint jobs. Although i have never sprayed a metallic. I have heard it is a different ball game. any tips would be greatly appreciated. i'll be using a hvlp gun...
paitence,paitence don't get in a hurry, if you have some one with experience then get their help, you'll be glad you did.
On my last coat I always fog the panel to lay the metallic evenly. Sometimes if you paint it with even strokes you can develop tiger striping, especially if you dont have a good mix, or have other problems going on. I hope you are spraying base/clear, as single stage metallics take some good talent. Dan
My experience is what Dan said......basecoat is easier to stand back and fan. Doing this with single stage will tiger streak it and make orange peal. Also, stir, stir, stir, and shake, shake, shake. Every time you mix more paint or fill the gun from a mixed cup make sure to stir it before pouring. Give the gun a shake every couple of passes. Cleaver
here are your steps 1. spray a dust coat going from front bumper to rear bumper.... this coat is a tie coat between primer and the paint... put some "clean" nuts in the bottom of your paint gun cup... or some ball bearings... steelies are the best to use.. 3 or 4 of them allow paint to tack up before next coat 2. next coat spray up and down and a little thicker than the first.. allow paint to tack up before next coat 3. 3rd coat spray at a 45 degree angle from the 2nd coat allow paint to tack up before next coat 4. repeat different directions, until you have thoroughly coated the vehicle and you are satisfied you dont have tiger stripes one major important thing... DO NOT STOP SPRAYING ON THE VEHICLE. when you stop spraying.. the last burp of air pressure will leave globs of metallic flake... always start and stop spraying before the nozzle is facing the vehicle. the reason you are doing this is so that you dont get tiger stripes... these are very easy to get when spraying metallic paints... this happens when the spray pattern of your gun sprays heavier on the sides oif the spray pattern rather than in the middle.. if you have sprayed before, then you know that you should have a nice pattern of approx 6-10 inches wide fan. and with an even spray in the middle and the sides... if you have this setup correctly, then the stiping wont be that noticeable... make sure you agitate the paint in the cup every few seconds... this will make sure the the flake is evenly mixed in the paint... if you stop agitating the paint for even a few seconds, the flake will settle in the bottom of the cup and it will start to look foggy and not that metallic there is nothing wrong with spraying metallic.. you just have to be careful and take your time if you want you can call me at my home.. PM me and i will give you my number... i have been painting for 16 years and i have done 5 cars.. 3 metallics ( all single stage).. 2 solids ( 1 car won best on show 3 times).. and about 60 aircraft(pretty much any color) and 6 blackhawk helicopters for US Customs (base coat clear coat). i will gladly help anyone who wants help or ideas.. good luck
could have used that 5 months ago I am getting ready to repaint my mav because of tiger stripe and excessive orange peel. That info will come in handy this time around. I pinted in too hot of weather for my paint and I didn't change the spray angle either. I hope this time it turns out better. At $600.00 a whack, I can't afford too many redo's.
metallic was the first car i ever painted, at a little body shop in illinois. my boss had me thin the paint mor on my last couple of coats.the last one being almost all reducer,he said it keeps the metallic moving. but very easy to make the paint run. he also had me use a wider fan on the gun,like simon said.good luck
i always put a very clean marble or metal ball bearing in the cup while spraying. helps you keep the paint shaken and the flakes from settling to the bottom.
what paint is easier I used BC/CC on my paint job but I just had a guy tell me that acrylic enamel is easier. My question is, does it last as long and have as much shine as BC/CC? If I have a mess up, is it as forgiving as BC/CC? Do you have a preference on name brand? I used PPG the last time but I am thinking of using Dupont this time around. (cheaper ) For 2 quarts of paint and all the other stuff to mix with it, and the clear, They are asking 574.00 for the PPG. If there is no difference between the two name brands I am going to make a trip to the next town and look at Dupont.
you get what you pay for .. PERIOD. i have used PPG... DuPont.... Imron....Omni... Deft... and a few others.. as long as you take car of the paint, all paint systems (when used as a system) will work just fine.. do NOT spray base coat from one.. clear from another.. they will have adhesion problems later on as far as BC/CC goes... yes... they are the best.. reason being.. the clear coat is what protects the paint. if you go enamel, it will work, but the paint is a single stage and has gloss in the paint already.. the base coat is a flat color and will dry in approximately 2 hours.. you can color sand. fix any problems, ie.. dirt, bugs, etc in the paint.. also you can hand sand it and get and orange peel in it out ... then when you clear you will be assured that the clear you sand down wont be getting into the paint, which can be bad... the clear coat is best to use for an overall great looking paint job.. enamel is what earl shieb uses and Maaco.. synthetic enamels will last about 6 months.. then you will need to paint again i would suggest going with a good bc/cc paint system... spray a few coats of color so that you have it nice and evenly coated... then spray about 2-6 light coats of clear.. the more clear the "deeper" the color will be. and allows you more wet sanding to get out orange peel... spray the clear coat in real light coats and this will keep orange peel down to a minimum.
That is exactly what I wanted to know.. Thanks The reason I went PPG the first time is they have a very good clear coat. I was going to use Dupont paint and PPG clear, but now I will stick with the PPG as a system..
Well, I have decided to send it out and have it sprayed. I dont wanna experiment with this car. What should i pay to just have it sprayed? again, I allready have the materials, The car is allready primed and taped off. All the dude will have to do is mix and shoot....What would be a high and low price? btw... thanks for all the previous and future advice....
if the car is completly prepped.... ready to paint and you supply everything, one of several things will happen 1. they wont warranty anything... since you did the work 2. they will spray it with their paint and you will be stuck with your paint 3. they wont have a problem with anything and will charge you a decent price since i have never really charged a lot of money to paint a car... i would say you will pay from 800-1600 just for them to paint it....its hard to say.. you might get lucky and they will do it cheaper... if i lived near ya i would do it for cheap... if you have sprayed before go for it... its nothing new... just make sure to spray the metallic in a few different directions and keep the paint agitated with the ball bearings of nuts or whatever... then let it dry and then spray the clear in real light coats basically building up the clear so that you can wet sand and buff it out later... you dont want to sand the paint after you clear it, so make sure you get the clear on somewhat thick but if you still want to have someone paint it for ya.. call around... at least 5 places and dont give them your name.. just say you want to find a price to just spray... everyhting else is done.. etc... but DO NOT CALL EARL SHIEB OR MAACO... you get what you pay for...
