Misfiring

Discussion in 'Technical' started by maverick656, Dec 17, 2013.

  1. maverick656

    maverick656 Member

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    So I had Posted on here not too long ago, and concluded that the reason Maria (My Maverick) wasn't running was because the wire ontop of the Ignition coil was wet. I dried it and it Fired right up. Now when I go Above 60 MPH or 2500-2900 Rpm (those two numbers aren't related) It begins to spit. Almost like something is tugging on the car as I'm moving. It's only started doing this recently (last 2 days). I'm gonna go out on my lunch break from school and check to see if everything is dry, plugs are all tight, ect. but you guys have gave me great suggestions in the past, so I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem/ knows how to fix it. Its a 75' Maverick 250 I6

    On Another note, Maria is having a really hard time starting this winter. I think it may be the battery, because it turns over really slow, but just enough to start. I'll turn the key, and it sounds like its trying to fire, but wont catch. after some work, I get it to fire and start up. I don't know how to explain it accurately, so sorry about the vagueness. Think I'm going in the right direction? once I get moving though, and I get somewhere, it starts no problem. Just after it sits overnight.
     
  2. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    electronic or points style igition?

    changed your fuel filter.. or cleaned the carb lately.. or ever?
     
  3. simple man

    simple man Member

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    First thing, I would replace the coil wire. If it gets wet and the car won't run, it's definitely bad. If your budget will go for it, get the whole plug wire set. It will have the coil wire too. Slow starting may be many things. I see you live in a cold climate, so you will have to have a good battery (have it tested at an auto parts store), good battery cables, and clean all the connecting points. If you aren't using a lighter grade oil (10w-30), change your oil to that grade for the winter. These items should help you! :)
     
  4. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Replace your condenser, it's a 3 dollar part and they tend to just go and leave you stranded.
     
  5. maverick656

    maverick656 Member

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    The old style, I know I don't have points though..I just changed my fuel filter, and ran a bottle of Lucas through it with my last fill up (a week ago), and I manually cleaned the carb about 3 weeks ago. I'm gonna replace the battery cables, they aren't frayed or torn, but they are pretty old (original), the resistance is probably horrible. I'll take the battery as soon as I can. And the oil I may change it from 10w-40 to 10w-30. Suggestions from another post (groberts) said to do like 5w-30 or 40, but synthetic is taboo to me, call me old fashioned.. And I have the condenser, I just haven't put it in haha
     
  6. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    The OP said it's a '75. This tells me it's electronic ignition.
     
  7. maverick656

    maverick656 Member

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    On another note, could being low on oil cause the engine to do this? I'm at the absolute bottom of the safe area on the dipstick....
     
  8. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    nope.

    If you want to stick with conventional oil.. Penzoil Ultra uses top quality base stocks too. Probably cheaper as well.
     
  9. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    As usual.. good catch.

    Multi-tasking and X-mas shopping between 8 diferent websites has its disadvantages at times. lol
     
  10. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    I'm trying to look busy at work, didn't catch it either.

    I had issues with my 200 six in the wet, because water would get inside the distributor cap. You had water issues before you may want to consider sealing your distributor cap. A bead of RTV around the cap before seating it did wonders for me. I kept getting corrosion build-up on the rotor.

    New wires never hurts. If you replace the ground wire consider running 2 wires rather than window stripping the ground wire as the stock is. Running 1 from battery to firewall, and 1 firewall to block can be super helpful, and it gives you a good ground stud to run a ground from the alternator. If you are still on the stock alternator/spacer to ground you want to run at least a 10AWG wire to help those old oil splattered metal to metal connections.
     
  11. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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    New battery cables will make no difference in the way the car runs. Once the car is started all electrical is coming from the alternator, you could actually remove your battery with the car running, not recommended of course. Sounds like new plug wires and possibly distributor cap are needed.
     
  12. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    This is not really accurate.

    A new positive battery cable will make little difference in how the car runs.

    The ground cable is the same cable that grounds the engine block, that grounds the alternator, that basically grounds the entire car to the battery, which completes the circuit with its positive cable to the starter solenoid (stock). So if the ground cable is nasty the whole electrical system in the car is messed up.

    But yes, the battery is only for starting (and really you could just hand crank the engine over to start it) and is pretty much just a method of maintaining a consistent reference voltage for the alternator once the car is running.
     

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