Forgot to mention before, that very little torch work was done, mostly body saw and saws-all. A 4in cutoff wheel is also handy for trimming. A plumb bob is used to find the center of the car and a chalk line is snapped on the floor from front to rear, then center line of rear axle is found and a intersecting line snapped. Also marked this line on the outside of the fender well with tape and marker. Stringing from corner to corner and finding wheel base measurements, plus constant checking of levels and angle finder is a must. Is not an easy task but not that hard for a dummy like me to attempt with the mavman who does most of the work anyway.
Rear section was opted to leave two stubs to weld the rear crossmember two rather than butt against the rather thin body panel. Afterwards two support braces were attached from the crossmember to the rear bumper support(this is a 74 model car)
More of the installation of complete backhalf frame when pic's are uploaded. Hope this helps some of you guys get an idea of the project and maybe see why most have it done by pro's. But mavman and myself decided to see if we could do it ourselves.
Good Luck! Looks like you've already committed to it, so good luck with it. I have all ideas that between the two of you, it'll get done. Take care, Country
MORE MORE MORE Ok those are great starters now you have our attention.. SEND SOME MORE>>>> lol thanks... ::: Ron :::
One thing to note, when you suspend the car on jackstands, don't just place the stands at very front and very rear of the car. When you cut out the frame rails and rear floor, it will sag severely. We put the stands at the rear of the front subframe, about 12" behind the front wheels. Believe it or not, I can pick up the entire rear of the car with one hand, and that is with the rear end (minus axles and pig), cage, and bumper installed
