motor shaking like crazy... process of elimination

motor shaking like crazy... VIDEO

HERE IS A VIDEO
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jdnRbaWh_U"]efi to carb 302 5.0 swap - YouTube[/nomedia]


okay, ive been doing this whole 302 carb swap. got a 87 mustang GT motor, using a 50oz. flexplate, the 87 hamonic balancer. 2 different exhaust mani's, one from an 87 GT and other from a 73 motor. (cause the driver side wouldnt fit the bigger exhaust mani)

my c4 trans and torque converter is rebuilt.

the motor starts up NOW, FINALLY. but it shakes like crazy and sounds pretty scary actually. im pretty sure we got the correct firing order on.

what is the process of elimination here?

would having 2 different size manifolds cause it to shake like this? im running out of money here and im actually starting to get discouraged.

should i buy another 50 oz. flexplate? new balancer?

should i redo the firing order to the other option?

someone also mentioned something w/ the valves. man, this sucks.

 

i would redo the fireing order again.
put the motor on top dead center for cylinder #1. make sure its between its compression and power stroke. you can verify this by having the #1 plug out as you turn the motor over by hand and feel the air get pushed out.
then take off the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. thats the #1 spark plug wire post. now the firing order for a 87 5.0 ho out of a mustang is 13726548. the rotor goes counter clockwise.

if that is all correct then i would do a comprssion test and a leak down test.

also are the flex plate and balancer the ones that came on the motor or ones the you replaced?

lastly a blown head gasket or cracked head or block and cause it to run rough. you should find a spark plug that looks different from the rest if thats the problem

 

for my v style pulley, im using a STANDARD rotation water pump. am i supposed to be using a reverse?

cause i was re-reading this article

http://www.maverick.to/grabber/late302.html

 

the water pumps rotation depends on the belts and the timing cover. you signiture says your useing a 73 timing cover so it would use a standar rotation pump. you will want to use a belt system that turns the water pump pully the same direction as the crank. a v-belt system will do this. if you use a serpentine system then the grooved side of the belt must be running on the pully surface to have it turing the correct way.

the water pump should have no effect on engine vibrations

 

wrong...balancer
wrong...flexplate
wrong... timming

are some things that will cause a bad vibration...

...good luck...:Handshake

 

cool, guys. so now its back to the jackstands. thanks.

 

In addition to this, a bad balancer will as well. And the late model balancers are well known to slip the outer ring. Check both the firing order. . Did you check to see that you're numbering the cylinders correctly ? Did you do the F/O based on the counterclockwise rotation of the distributor rotor ?

 

Just a quick shot but if your firing order is right and it still shakes, try the early firing order. Somebody might have put an earlier cam in there....Would only take a minute and you would know immediately

 

HERE IS A VIDEO OF WHATS GOING ON

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jdnRbaWh_U"]efi to carb 302 5.0 swap - YouTube[/nomedia]

 

I don't see the engine shaking and there's no sound. The prop rod IS out of balance though Or was that the drop light cord ? Look fo vacuum leaks too, that'll cause one to shake. And lose the tie wraps around the spark plug wires, that can cause the fire to jump from one wire to another, depending on the age and condition of the wires.

 

Could you have a simple missfire? Does it smooth out once you come off of idle? Is it worse under a load?

 

It smooths out when I turn up the idle.

 

If it was an imbalance, I would think it would get worse with increasing RPM, not get better.

What is the RPM when it is shaking? In other words, what is your idle RPM?

 

Look for vacuum leaks....Spray some WD40 around the intake where it mates to the heads and carb base and see if you notice any change in rpm or any smoke out the exhaust.....Also if for whatever reason any coolant is dripping into the intake port {bad or wrong gasket} it might do this....You can pull the plugs and if one looks shiny new, that'll be the cylinder

 

Thanks so much guys, I knew the video would help. Even thought the mic on an iphone sucks. That was the hood prop shaking, lol. Looks like a wire when it's shaking bad.