These are pics of the rear quarter panels and rockers. I found rear quarters, factory style, for 169.95 each. Also JCwhitney sell rockers that they say you dont have to remove the old ones to mount the new. Has anybody used these, how do they work. Any and all sugestions would be helpful. would not show pics check next post.
the pics areen't there. also,just my two cents, I don't know what the specific rockers are you're looking at, but at the very least, it would be a good idea to get rid of all traces of rust. I'm assuming those rockers are supposed to go over the old ones like a cap. But rust will just keep coming even if you cover it up.
The slip over rocker panels are a cosmetic fix only. They slip over the original rocker and you can weld, rivet, screw them on. I used a set many years ago on a an old pickup, took them off 2 years later and put replacement rocker panels on. Just remember that the slip over are just for cosmetic purpose and do nothing for stuctural integrity, something that every car needs in that area whether full framed or unitized. Dan
I agree with others on the topic of slip over rockers. They are only a temporary fix. The rust will still be there eating away at the metal that is hidden under the slip overs. The longer the rust remains, the more damage it does. They may be fine for someone who is looking to unload the car in the future, but if you are planning to keep the car, cut the rusted rockers off and weld in new ones. You will be much happier with the results in the long run.
You may not need to replace the whole rocker just cut out the bad parts and spray some etch primer on to prevent the rust from coming back then put the covers over.... mind you this is only if the rust isnt really bad, just few small spots here and there. I some what did this on one of my cars i just cut out most of the pannel and fabricated a new one more of a cover but it looks good But if the rust is bad i agree get rid of the rocker and weld up a new one.
I used a JC whitney rocker panel ( not the slip on - but the real weld in deal) the fit was terrible. I had to re-work the whole thing. Would have been easier to just start over. The top flange (part that goes under the threshold trim) was correctly bent, the face of the panel was correct, but the bottom side was all wrong. The panel was just a straight leg with a bend. The Maverick contour on the bottom of the panel has an arc in it so the weld seam is slightly higher than the visible edge. I had to clamp in a 1/2" diameter steel rod and work the metal up around that rod and then arc it back into the spotweld flange. I'm getting mad just thinking about it now and I put that thing on over a year ago. If you want a good rocker - make a good cardboard template and find a local sheetmetal contractor in town to bend it for you. They will probably use scrap metal and will only require 3 bends and a radius bump. Shouldn't take them more than 30 minutes - even at full rate - thats only $20-$30. The place I deal with cuts me a break because I pay cash and usually the owner gets one of his guys to work after hours or at lunch. The owner just takes the cash and hands it over to the guy that does the work. Did I just describe "under the table"? (wink, wink) Cleaver
