Alright we almost have everything together, but we need a converter, I want the car to be streetable, and my ultimate goal is to have it in the 10's at the strip, the car should redline at 7000rpm, but most the power should be made a little before 6500rpm. It's a 345ci HO block, forged pistons, forged rods, but a cast crank, ProComp 190cc heads, Comp XE274HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Heddman longtube headers, with a Don-Walsh built reverse manual valve-body C4 (which might end up with a transbrake), and 4.88 gears (on 31" tall tires) but I need help on a converter...idk what stall to run, would 4000 be too much for a car with a 7000rpm redline? Any advice will be appreciated...
If you are running slicks the go with a 4000 rpm stall if you are running street tires more like 3000 rpm stall. Since you don't have the converter yet call Jay at Broader Performance and have him build one that matches your needs exactly.
I think halfway might be good, 3500 stall, on the street it'll sit on M/T ET Streets and on the track it'll have M/T slicks
I'm with Paul on this one, consult an expert. Unless you plan on using a big power adder you will also need to look at your heads and cam.
I got my converter from edge performance, its custom built to your car, and its backed with a money back garantee, and a 2 year waranty, i love my converter, i picked up .6 in the 1/8 mile with a converter change
Can't remember who did it, but I recall someone making them custom, and then offering you one-time only replacement if you aren't satisified with the results. So, if you get 3500 and try it out and decide the 4000 would be better, they let you make one swap. Is this common practice?
my set up is 302 with Dart W Sr. heads iron, ParkerFunnel, Custom built Mechanical 750 Holley, .630 lift intake .627exh with .258 intake .262exh @50 custom ground cam from comp with 105-106 lobe sep. a 4500 stall and 4.88's with a 28 tall slick should go through the traps at 128 at 7,500. 10sec all day long on a 150 shot and high elevens on the motor with a $50.00 craigslist short block 4,000to4500 should be great!!!
All throttle and no bottle??? it may be hard to get to the 10's on what you say you have but I could be wrong. How much weight have you removed? Remember rotational weight is a 1/3 the mass of dead weight. For every 10 lbs of weight you aren't turning its the same as 100 lbs of dead weight. My stall is a 8 inch and stall speed of 4,500 Less filling and still tastes great. I'm with most everyone else, 4,000 will get you where you are looking to go. Good luck with your build. As always just my .02 Bossmav
Yup, all motor baby! It should weigh around 2500-2700, it ran a best of a 9.89 with a Boss 302 and a 4-speed back in the day, I'm not too confident about 10's with the ProComp heads, but I want to invest in some AFR 185's and maybe an even bigger cam if I have to.
To break into the 10's I would think you'd have to be putting around 400hp to the rear wheels. I think your car is setup pretty much like mine since it probably ran in B/SM like mine...............the chassis on my car although very dated has been in the high 9's, and although I have a little more HP with the old motor I don't see why you can't get in the high 10's with the motor if it has some better heads like some AFR185's and around 10.2/10.5cr. I think the cam you have chosen is pretty good, as it does favor the exhaust side and the 224/232 duration is healthy enough to produce good power without destroying driveablity.........and being on a 112 lobe separation is should offer a decent idle and broad powerband. I am not sure about the headers, but a good set of equal length 1-5/8 headers and something like a 650 Barry Grant should give you around 400hp at the rear tires as long as the motor is blueprinted.............and you will not need to spin the motor more than 6500rpm.............which is good for keeping it together. As for the converter................I would talk with a converter manufacture, but really think the 4000 stall would be what you are looking at with the car and motor you have. Mine is 5000 stall and although I could shift at over 7000..............I hardly ever go over 6500rpm. IMHO IMHO
Well I saw in this one small block ford dyno book we have, that a 333ci SBF with the same cam, similar PowerPlus intake, and AFR 185 heads made 448hp and 445 ft-lbs, and I don't think the C4 will take much of that power away so I'm hoping for numbers like that, I think the headers we're going to use are the 1 5/8" longtube Hedmans that fit Mavs, I think I'm going to go with a 4000 stall too, and we checked the CR and we believe the motor should have a 12:1 CR (And that might be an understatement actually) Thank you for the support and advice, hopefully we'll have the car running soon, and take it out to Milan and see how she does...
Well.................if you are going to run 12:1 or higher then all bets are off and I believe you will most certainly get into the 10's.
lol, we checked and something might've been wrong because it looked like alcohol compression but it should be pretty high, 12:1 is our guess. Hopefully it will be low enough to run on premium with a bunch of additives, wouldn't mind the smelling turbo blue all the time though...
lol..............did a restoration on a 68 (real deal) Z28 a number of years ago.......the car is now in Sweden............and the factory 302 had been rebuilt just before I got the car (I was told this by the guy I bought it from) so to make sure I tore it completely down and checked everything to make sure, it had been but it had been rebuilt with the stock 11:1cr. When I got it back together and tried to run premium (those days it was 93) it just ping'd like crazy, so rather than run an additive (I have never liked additives as they do strange things to the fuel system and play havic witht the carb) I went to cutting the 93 half and half with 104 racing gas. I also had to run a mix of unleaded racing gas and premium pump gas in my 97 Mustang Cobra after I did mod's to it...............here in California 91 is the best premium you can get. It used to run ok with 93, but the 91 didn't cut it. The optimum compression for running alcohol is around the 14/15:1. The current motor I am putting back together is at about 14.8:1 with the TF-R heads and I believe the guy who put the car together back in 99 and did run alcohol for a short time.................but I will stick with gas...........and just follow my start up procedure........it is so easy to hydraulically lock a 14/15:1 motor............and when you do.........something will give or break...........ofcourse it's race only and I will continue to run 114/116. Also I am running an MSD 7AL-3 so I can retard the timing during startup.
We're pretty sure it's in the raange of 12:1 unless you NEED pop-ups to have that much compression, but there might be .01", not even, between the piston at full rise and the deck...and my only concern is that with a 4000 stall the car would be redlining before crossing the traps...it does have a 4.88 gear and was set up to cross the traps at like 8,000rpm with the Boss 302/4-spd setup...
