Hi all. Last summer I put a bone stock and very high milege 302 from a 76 mav in my 77 (orig I-250). That was a great learning experience but now that motor has gone bad and I want to get a rebuilt one. I'd like to get a late 80's Mustang roller motor. I priced that at 1670 for the long block. I've read many old posts on this but need the bottom line to price and purchase parts. 1. I know I need a 157 tooth flex plate for a 81-83 mustang. 2. I am unclear if I use my old harmonic balancer? 4. What about timing cover, valve covers, and oil pan? 5. I know I need a reverse rotation water pump (from Charlie Ping's site). I know people had issues bulting up other accessories (like alternator). What is the issue there and what is the easiest solution? 6. my distributor is a direct swap except for the gear (also from C.Ping; I know that some peaple had no issue with their oroginal gear but I'd like to be safe and switch it). where do I get that gear? 7. DID I MAKE ANY MISTAKES OR LEAVE ANYTHING OUT?? Any info on your expirience, products, pricing would be awsome. I can make a neat list and post that when we are all done, like a checklist of what to get for this swap. THANKS!!! Dan
are you going efi or carbed?? If carbed, grab a duraspark dist and setup from an 85 5.0 roller engine, or you can get them from auto zone for $50. the price you quoted was outrageously high, I assume that's a rebuilt longblock??? FYI, you can purchased a wrecked but running 5.0 mustang for under a grand, keep the engine, and make all your cash back parting it out. oil pan will have to be changed, valve covers should work fine, and I believe the timing cover will too. If going carbed, and you pick up an early block 86-89? or so, you should be able to install the mechanical pump with the addition of the pump accentric, other than that, use an external fuel pump. The flexplate you'll need is a 157 tooth 50 oz unit. From what I understand, ford never made one, but the aftermarket does. I see them pop up on ebay frequently for $50 or so.
Thanks Jeremy. I am planing to buy a edelbrock preformer RPM intake and a new carb. my engine now is the regular 2v. My car has a motorcraft electronic ignition. Do I still need the duraspark dist and setup from an 85 5.0 roller engine? Yes, that price was for a rebuilt longblock. Do you know of any good rebuilds for less? I worry about buying a used engine because of my present experience with the old 302 but I guess with low milage a running 5.0 mustang would be great; and under a grand!!? Where should I be looking (I live in NYC)? What kind of Oil pan do I have to get? Are you saying that to work a mechanical gas pump on the timing cover, I'll need to add a pump accentric (the thingy at the end of the cam, right?)? are thoes sold aftermarket or will my old one work? Thanks a million!
Here's some of the stuff you need 1. stock Maverick front sump pan 2. 50.0 oz harmonic balancer to match the flex plate 3. plug the block dip stick hole I taped mine for an 1/8 pipe plug 4. use early model timing cover, some of the later covers don't have the fuel pump mount or the dip stick tube hole drilled. some still have the lug for the hole and can be drilled. 5. If you run the stock type V belt drive for alt, power steering, and A/C you need a stock rotation water pump. If running serpentine then you need the reverse rotation pump. 6. The cam is made of steel in roller motors unlike the cast in others, that is why you need to change the distibutor gear. Ford racing has the gear avalible and they have good instuction on it's instalation p/n fms-m12390b $44.95 from summit 7. Ford racing also has the flexplate and harmonic balancer. flex for c4's fms-m-6375-e302 $139 harmonic and pointer fms-6316-m50 $75.69 8. your old fuel pump eccentric should work just check the timing cover clearence.
Great info So I finally understand why the reverse rotation pump is needed; it has to do with the routing of the serpentine belt. If i go with the rebuilt longblock I will use my accessories and v-belts. Are there any issues bolting the old crank pulley to the new balancer? Hopefully the pullies will still line up. Has anyone put their old fuel pump eccentric on one of these motors or do people usually go electric?
the TCI flexplate from summit is cheaper http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp&type=bysummitpart&searchtype=both&part=tci-529610&x=19&y=5 , I have a serpentine belt on my 302 and the water pump go`s clock wise and you don`t need a front sump oil pan just for a maverick or comet it can be for purdy much anything as long as its a front sump off a 289 or a 302
Sence Dan has a maverick oil pan that's what he would probably use but, as elliot said any front sump pan for cars should work and maybe some trucks. The first generation serpentines ran the same as regular V belts and are not generaly referd as serpentine systems. When refering to serpentines belt it is common to be talking about the system that's on most late model cars. One belt running all the accessories, the water pump pully is smooth and rotates counter clockwise (reverse rotation). This system also has a spring tensioner that tightens the belt. I forgot, your lower pully should bolt up fine. My wifes Maverick has a 95 roller block and stock 72 maverick V belt drive for the power steering, alt, and A/c
I decided that I'd like to go with the serpentine belt. I found a pick and pull yard not so far away in PA. I'm going next weekend to get the serpentine accessories (pullies/ brackets/ tensioner). Will a serpentine pulley go on my alternator or do I need to grab the alternator off the car too? I've never been to one of these places, do I need to bring my own pulley puller? I guess I'll see from the car I get the stuff off of if I need the reverse pump. Also wondering if anyone knows of a good brand rebuilt 5.0 roller at a good price. Right now I'm looking at a 4-star long block for $1670. Thanks
Dan; check the Summitt catalogue. They had a complete engine for about $1300 and change. Check it out. Also, check out Jegs. Earl
I think Thomas Hackmans First post should be put in the FAQ section . Many people would like to have that info in the Future.
Great news!:bananaman I found a really nice guy in a rebuild shop in brooklyn today. He's putting together a 5.0 roller for me, boring it to 40. Everything rebuilt by him and he seemed to know it all by how he was talking and the looks of his shop. He kept me and my buddy ther for three hous just showing us around and teaching us a hell of alot. He has a 5.0 there with most of the things I need on it and is including that stuff too! Ill get the ballancer, brackets, serpentine accessories and pullies, distributor (I'll use the one from the 5.0 so i dont have to get that gear), valve covers, new timing cover, reverse rotation pump off the engine.... He said that I dont need the 157 tooth plate, that I should just use the one off the motor in the shop but I think I should heed the advice of those how have done this swap and use the 157 tooth plate (I already ordered it from Summit. I also ordered a edelbrock air gap intake and holly 4160 600 cfm). Which starter am I supposed to use, my old one or the one on the 5.0? For all of this, I'm paying him $1,100 delivery included. Did I do alright? Oh yeh, on top of all that, he is also getting me a new electric fuel pump.
