I need the gap that is required between the accelerator pump lever and the cam on the accelerator bracket...I know it was on here somewhere, but did several searches and could not find it.
Congrats Scott!! Now this is one of those tuning deals that usuall become a great debate,but I'll tell you what i have been told here goes. With the throttle wide open push the little acc pump arm untill it bottoms out (not too much pressure) then the gap between the pump arm and the adjuster should be about 15 thou. Now you will probably have to fine tune it from there because i find every car likes different adjustments to eliminate stumbles and such. Ihope this helps.
There are several ways to do it. Another, the way I like, is to: Set your idle mix and speed FIRST. This will have an effect on accel linkage. When everything else is dead on, then you can tune the accel link. With linkage at full rest, make sure the arm between the lever and the cam has play. Now, slowly take out the slack with the 2 nuts on the lever end of the linkage. The cam and linkage should be touching. The lever and pump diaphram should be touching. This will leave all the play in the form of a gap between the lever and adjustment nut on the end of the link arm. With everything still at rest, and NO pressure on the diaphram, I take that gap down to nothing. Holley recommends a very slight amount, I like it tight. In the end, everything should be touching, but there should be NO pressure on the diaphram. Now, when you move the throttle, even just a TINY amount, the accel pump should send some fuel to the squirters. Instant reaction to throttle movement is the name of the game with accel pump tuning. Makes quick throttle response. Again though, any movement of the idle speed adjustment, will affect the accel adjustment! Even changing the timing to where you need to do an idle change will cause a change in pump. Do all your other tuning FIRST!
I did it like ratio said and it worked realy well. The only problem I had, which happened later, was the darn front float sticking...
I ended up putting it at .030 at idle, because I hadn't read this yet. I am not driving it yet, still just running it in the garage, so I may need to still work on it. I took the accel pumps completely out of the equation until I got it to idle. Next question. I am pulling a vacuum at idle on my distributor advance nipple. Whassup?
You hooked the hose up in the wrong place.Needs to be above the throttle blades not below.Should be a ported vac nipple on the primary metering block.
I hate it when that happens!Make sure there isnt an unplugged hole in the metering block where the tube(nipple)should be,it will cause an off idle vac leak,(and drive you nuts)I am glad it running for you.Now the fun begins.Good luck.
Can I take the nipple out of the bottom and swap it with the plug in the hole in the metering block? That should fix me for now...
Just get a piece of steel tubing the correct dia and stick it in with some epoxy.(not too much though)dont want to plug that hole.
Why do you want to run a vacuum advance distributor anyway? Trying to get better gas mileage? In my opinion, its just something else to cause problems on an engine like yours. How many miles a year did you say it runs?
1000, average. I like the kick in the pants you feel when the advance kicks in. There is a plug that looks like a 1/4" pipe plug on the pass side of the metering block, is this where I need a nipple? Gene is going to send me a "tuning Holleys" book to help me figure out where everything is. I spent several years "mastering", or at least "understanding" an Edelbrock, now I am starting all over with a Holley, and they are NOTHING alike...
Sounds right(the pipe plug thing that is)Unscrew it and see if it sucks vacuum off idle,if so thats the one.That book will be a big help to you too.Holleys are pretty simple once you understand them.Their saving grace is the fact that they are allmost infinitely tunable.thats why racers use them.Good luck Scoop.
