I'm trying to put in a Pertronix ignition module and I can't figure out how to remove the existing module. It appears to have a magnetic clip on the back. Any tips on how to remove this and the 2 plates next to it. Also do I have to remove the armature to put on the Pertronix magnetic sleeve over the distrubutor shaft.
that is a duraspark distributor. it needs a ignition box of some sort to work. you have severaly options to make it work. you can put a duraspark box in, use a gm hei module, or an aftermarket ignition box like an msd. if you want to use your pertronics you need to get a point type distributor to put them in.
i was wondering if maybe they had started selling an upgrade kit for duraspark... what ignition problem were you having? you sure you need to fix your dizzy?
After I did an extensive burnout a few months ago I'm having this problem. After driving at highway speed for a couple of miles the engine kicks down without warning. Similar to if you suddenly shift into neutral. The car looses all forward accelaration. When I press on the gas pedal the engine does not rev but remains running at above idle rpm. Then as I drift to a stop then engine dies out. It is hard to restart the engine right away. But after giving it some time it will eventually re-start. But it will do it all over again if I drive the same way. I've got a new carb, coil and fuel pump. I'm trying to narrow the probelm down and was thinking the ignition module was burning out.
fuel filter??? almost sounds like it is sucking something up in the fuel pickup then after it sits it lets loose, restarts, then happens all over again. I could be way off but if you have a fuel filter and you have not changed it already, you should. good luck
Thought about the fuel filter too. I've changed it twice. Now I have a clear one on and the fuel is clean.
try geting a new pick up for the duraspark distrbutor. you will need to ask for one for a 75 or newer car. also it could be the igniton module. you just have to try swaping the parts out. try the cheapest one first.
Check the amount of play in the vacuum advance plate. If the pivot is worn it may be opening or closing the air gap between the stator wheel and module enough to cause a loss of signal. You might also need a new amplifier box - they do go bad... sometimes for no other reason then being left "on" without the engine running for a few minutes too long.
If I was to keep this distributor, and just swap parts out, what are the steps to removing the module, stator etc......thanks!
For the price of parts and the time you spend tearing into the distributer you can get a reman at your local auto parts store cheaper. If you wanna do it you need a puller for the star gear inside the top of the dis. and you have to becareful not to break it. FYI
To change it over to a points type distributor you will need the breaker plate, cam and advance mechanism. You pull the lock ring from the top of the advance shaft, pull the screws that hold the breaker plate and advance plate, remove the vacuum advance unit and pull the advance assembly. Then you reinstall the points type parts and set the points and timing. I think unless you get a parts distributor you will pay more for the parts needed than for a rebuilt distributor.
There is a retainer on the inside of the shaft that can be a pain to remove. Once it is out take 2 screw drivers and carefully pry the relucter wheel up working on both side. Then I think there are 2 screws holding the vacuum advance on from the outside and an E clip on the inside. Remove them. Removing the screws holding down the vacuum advance plate if the new module comes with one or remove the module from the plate. I cannot remember how mine came the last time I replaced one. The module was only around $15 so it has been a while. I also might have a couple steps wrong but you should be able to figure it out. That inside retainer in the inside top of the shaft is the secret clint
The reluctor is timed with a small roll pin-be sure to get it back in the same place. I used a puller to get the reluctor off - I'm not sure that screw drivers will work without damaging the housing or the reluctor. If you are going to replace the reluctor with a cam type shaft but you want to reuse the same plate you will have to drill it for the points to mount - not sure that is worth it. If you replace the top shaft and breaker plate you don't have to remove the reluctor. just take the whole assembly out and replace it with the point type setup.
