Hey all, been a while since I have posted. I am having some problems with the ol mav, I replaced the points and condensor on my 200. After it wouldn't start I realized I have no idea what I am doing, lol. I assume I have the gap wrong, so if anyone knows it off the top of their heads I'd appriciate it. If anyone wanted to write a short Points 101 paragraph that will earn you kudo's! :bananaman LoL, my car knowledge is all over the place, I can rebuild the Edelbrock 4-barrel on my 302 mav, but I stare at the points and I think to myself, "What is that? Wow, it clicks when I turn the fan! Cool"
the gap for your points is .017 to 021 inch (about the thickness of a matchbook cover). If you are useing a dwell meter (which is more accurate) the dwell should be approximately 38 degrees. You will have to set your timing after you change the points. PaulS added note: to set the gap be sure that the points are on the middle of the point of the distributor cam where the rubbing block rides on the shaft.
I agree with the previous post. The reason your car won't start is probably because the points are closed up (no gap). I also wanted to add that points suck, and FordSix.com has an article on how to convert to electronic ignition, which I highly reccomend. In fact, I believe that the two most essential upgrades to early Mavericks & Comets are electronic ignition and front disc brakes...
I love the PERTRONIX IGNITOR magnetic pickup. It will eliminate all problems with points and give you a much more reliable ignition system. Takes 5 minutes to install and will not change the look of your car if you are retaining the original stock appearance for shows. They have a new model out called the IGNITOR II that is for high performance engines. You can find all information at their website. They also have a tech department you can call that has been very helpful to me on some custom applications. JC Whitney sells them along with a bunch of people on ebay. Cost is around $75. http://www.pertronix.com/
Make sure you set the points on a lobe. Bump the ignition until you land on a lobe. There will be six for your car.
Dan; what kind of coil are you using? I have the Ignitor II, and it runs very well. I think the hotter coil you use, the better it will run. I have an Accel 40K coil.
Yes, a good coil is a must. Pertronix makes their 40K Flame Thrower in a stock black looking coil to maintain original look. Also, MOST problems with the magnetic pickups (Ignitors) can be traced to improper voltage at the distributor. Low voltage may work OK with points, but will cause a rough engine with the Ignitors. Follow the instalation instructions and check voltage with a meter when doing the install. I had this same trouble when I set up my boat with the Ignitor. Some distributors use a resistance wire that will lower the voltage, that is what I had. All it took to cure the rough engine was a good power supply to the Ignitor. Trouble free now.
I am using the Matching Pertronix Flame Thrower coil.. I do know there are problems if you don't have a full 12V going to the Igniter. This could be the issue since I have only attached it to the + side of the coil. A direct 12V connection from the Ingitor module to the battery may solve the issue .... Where is the resistance wire? Is it the wire in the distributor that attaches to the points/module?
A resistor wire is used on engines that run for long periods of time at high RPM's, like in a boat marine engine or a large generator. This is what I had a problem with in my Mercruiser 470 in my boat. What they do is lower the voltage down going to the points to reduce the chance of burning over long periods of operation. It will actually step down the power going to the points from 12-14 volts to 8-10 volts. I'm not talking about resistor plug wires, that is a whole different thing. I would say check the voltage with a meter. If it is good (above 10 volts), the next thing I would check is the air gap on the magnetic pickup. that has to be set correctly as well. Pertronix has a tech department that will gladly help you get it running right. I have used them several times and they were very helpful. Good luck, Eric
You can set your points with simple hand tools. You will need a feeler gauge and a screw driver. Turn you engine over preferably by hand until the cam in the distrubtor has a lob or tooth lined up with and pushing the tab on the points set. Once the alignment is right loosen the points mounting screws (one side has a slotted groove for adjustment. Find your correct gap specs and build that thickness with your feeler gauge. Open the points and put the gauge between the contacts. Next push the points set towards the distributor cam just to the point that the feeler gauge is barely being pinched, you will have to hold up the gauge and push the points set at the same time. Then tighten the screws for the points. You should now be able to stick the gauge into the gap but there should be just a little resistance. The gauge should not have any space between the contacts, it should slide in tight but still not actually force the points open much. Its better to have the gap a little too small than large as the gap will grow with use(wear and tear). I have went with an aftermarket distributer but used my points setup for years when I was younger and poorer.
That is exactly the way to do it. I might add a couple things I ran into way back when. After getting the gap set, sometimes when you tighten the two screws it will alter the gap because it moves the base plate of the point set. Double check all this, also if the feeler gauges have any residue on them such as oil or even finger oils from touching them, it will transfer to the contacts and in some cases act as a insulator and you will get no spark. Clean them after handling and also run a piece of lint free cloth or even an emory board thru the points to make sure they are clean and dry.
RudyD, i have a 70 mav with a 200, and because my income is very tight (im 17), i just replaced the old points style distributor with an electronic version form an 81 ford fairmount. 45$ got me a distributor (used), the control module (used, or 35$ new) a set of new wires and plugs. it is ALOT cheaper than doing the Petronix swap. the donar fairmount had a 250 six in it, and i had a person tell me the distributor would not fit in the 200, because the 250 had a taller deck height, but my distributor is working just fine! the only things i had to hook up were the red power wire, the green to positive on the coil, and drill two holes to mount the 4" by 4" control module.
i forgot to tell you that it was a duraspark II ignition module, and to set the spark plug gap (with stock module) to a much wider gap, i set mine at .054, but any where in the .045 to .060 range is recommended. the white/bluestriped wire on the module can be run to the ignition switch (the module will retard the spark for easier starting) or you can tape off the white/bluestriped wire, and just run the red wire to a power source.
