Hello All. Please bear with me, new to the whole "forum thing". I'm diving into the '74 big ugly front bumper swap to 70-72 small bumper project, and I'd like to both document the process and be able to ask questions. I know there are already multiple similar threads, so please tell me: is it appropriate to start my own, or jump into (hijack) another existing thread?
If it was me I would start my own thread as it would be easier to follow and more people would see it rather than looking at an old thread. I have converted a 76 to small bumpers and finding the bumpers and getting them rechromed is the hardest and most expensive part . Good luck
Thanks, good advice as any. I'll just continue this NEW thread then. If anybody's interested - the '74 big bumper itself weighs 62 lbs, and the frame mounting brackets are 15 lbs each. Total about 92 lbs. When I get the new bumper, brax, and skins I'll add all weights up and see how much I'm shaving.
Frame mounting holes: I have skinny bumper brackets on order; I'm pretty sure I'll have to drill at least one hole in the '74 frame. Does anybody have a template for the bracket holes?
there are more pieces than the bumper and brackets. for it to look right you will need all the pieces...JMO I did a 73 to 72 swap. yes, that's a puzzle I had made from A pic. of my car.
Here's a link to how I did the front small bumper swap on my '74... Small Bumper Swap ...and when you get ready to lose the 54 lbs. (w/o brackets) rear bumper for a 12 lbs. (w/brackets) small bumper swap. Small Rear Bumper Swap
Thanks, Frank. Love the puzzle! I know I need the stone guard and lower valance too, but for now I'm focusing on the hard part, the bumper. I'm considering trying to adapt a '65 Mustang lower valance to the existing '74 fender "wing" pieces, I think that would look badass...worth a try anyway.
Thanks, that helps a lot!!! If you don't mind, I have some followup questions: 1) You used 1/2" fasteners, how did you hold the nuts in place inside the frame to torque them down... there are factory holes in the bottom of the frame rail pretty close to where those bracket holes need to be, were you able to get a 1/2" wrench through those holes, or did you have to enlarge the holes? 2) In your pics you only used the main/center brackets, did you add the "wing" brackets later? Or just live without them?
Bumper: I could probably search for months, maybe longer, and never find an OEM bumper for sale, so I'm thinking about just shelling out for a new (Chinesium?) bumper from Auto Krafters ... $449.95! Insane! Why so much? Low volume pricing I guess....new Mustang bumpers are half that or less, I guess this is the price we pay for not having "just another Mustang"!
For what it's worth, I had an OEM front bumper straightened and rechromed right before they offered the aftermarket ones. It was right around $500 to get it done. Just buy the aftermarket ones.
Thanks, that confirms it. I'm sure the aftermarket ones are Chinesium Chrome, not good, but it'll look good for a year or so.
Here are some pics of the holes, underside frame, near where the bumper bracket holes are/will be. The front hole is too small for an 11/16 wrench, but a 9/16 fits; so to use 1/2" bolt/nut I'll need to enlarge the front hole, unless you know some magic way I'm not thinking of....? The rear hole is elongated, an 11/16 wrench fits no problem.
... there's probly a slew of 'Big Bumper' guys checking out popular bumper mod thread. If resources ($) or keeping the 'period styling originality' cues are a factor, the heavy backing beam and heavy frame viscous mounts in the 'big bumper' can simply be removed as an alternative to the pricey and involved 'small bumper' swap. Simply 'Tucking' the big bumper a bit does smooth the look. . ... used light 'Dexion" slotted angle removing the heavy frame brackets, girder beam and most all the weight of the 'big bumper' which is just a light steel - chrome envelope over the girder . . . . . (added a larger alum radiator moved frontward to fit 250's SC pulleys and cooling needs.) . . . . . . . . . . .. likely is safer than the original setup which may prevent a 5 MPH dent but not help the humans inside where a crumple zone can reduce impact injuries at speed... . hav efun .