now the pics of my 75 comet

Discussion in 'Cosmetic' started by 75comet, Jan 3, 2005.

  1. 75comet

    75comet Member

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    Ok now that we figured out what engine i needed and stuff, how about what i wil need as far as mounts i took some pictures of the ones it has right now. they can be found at http://fbcyouth.mjm88.com/comet.html also you can find the pictures of the kind of body work that needs to be done, i would like to get sheetmetal welded inplace, but if you think bondo will work let me know also you can email me at j.cook.102@gmail.com catch me on msn at littlebrat102@hotmail.com, and AIM at delctrncs, thanks
     
  2. shaunh82

    shaunh82 Member

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    you need to cut the rust out and patch it in with metal, and you need to get the 302 mounts, frame and motor, as we've been saying. If you do a search, you will find loads and loads of information and other resources that will help you in your project. Just out of curiousity, have you pulled the carpet out to check your floor boards? I'm betting they are not pretty, and neither are the torque boxes. You should check to see what is all required to repair all those areas. You should also invest in a Ford small block v8 book
     
  3. 75comet

    75comet Member

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    what do i ask for as far as mounts, just any 302 mount, or for the specific car, i am going to buy motor mounts new, but frame mount will probably be form junkyard, does anyone know where i can get one fairly cheap? also i will need a transmission crossmember for daul exhaust since the six only had single.the floorboards are decent, the drivers side has a small hole, umm torque boxes are those behind the front fenders? if so, there isnt much left of them, i have a book taht will cover my engine, but it does not say anythign about swapping. thanks
     
  4. shaunh82

    shaunh82 Member

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    has to be out of a maverick or comet, there are people on the board that have them for sale occasionally, should post a wanted ad and they will know what you are looking for
     
  5. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    Friendly advice: If the torque boxes are gone......I wouldn't recommend spending a whole lot of money on that car. Makes a great learning tool!! Been there....done that.
     
  6. 75comet

    75comet Member

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    what are torque boxes ????
     
  7. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    Behind the front wheels. Do a search on this board on the topic. lots of good pictures on here about the subject.
     
  8. Acornridgeman

    Acornridgeman MCCI Wisconsin State Rep Moderator Supporting Member

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    Craig is absolutely correct. I have been down the rust bucket path way too often. And on some very desireable and rare cars that had to be saved at all costs. I looked at your pictures and cringed at the thought of working on it. Not that it can't be done, but it will be a hell of a lot of work. For every spot of rust you can see, there are 5 that you can't. And everyone that you see is way bigger then it looks. And you really won't know what you have until you get that car pulled apart to get a good look at it. And it will cost a lot to do in both time and money. And since you are already worried about the cost of motor mounts, I think it is safe to say the money is an issue with your project. As Craig said, this car can be a great learning tool. Nobody starts out knowing everything and you have to learn someplace. Start small and work your way up. Dropping a heavy and higher HP V8 into a car with a weakened frame and body is just gonna be a receipe for failure and problems.

    Now, I hope I haven't totally discouraged you. But you have to be realistic. You should find out if there are any classes in bodywork that you can enroll in. Most people will jump into a project of this magnatude and find they are in way over their head, get discouraged, and give up.

    Now to help you, the wanted board here, junkyards and ebay are a good places to find parts. Bodywork is all hand done on these cars as replacement sheetmetal is pretty slim to find. Substructure of the frame can be hand cut and welded in and solid exterior sheetmetal can be found from donor cars. It will require patience, skill, and money. I have some parts and most of the time I am willing to give the stuff away cheap or free if somebody can use it.

    And again, I hope I have not discouraged you or made you mad. But I hope you realize what you are up against.
     
  9. 75comet

    75comet Member

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    i knew that the body work would be a pain, and i know a guy who does professional body work, and then we also have a rustbusters place in town i was going to take it to and see what they would charge. i am in no big hurry on the body work, just wanted to find out ideas. and as far as it goes, i have no idea about body work. as far as gettign discouraged, im not that ype of person when i get an idea i stick withit. money isnt a big deal except my dad pays for it, and he may be going on strike in the summer. but if not we will be good.
    thanks again and i will get pictures as i progress, but as far as the actualy strucure of the car it isnt rusted
     
  10. littleredtoy

    littleredtoy Seth

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    Re: rust etc.
    Craig is very experienced in restorations, particularly on these cars.
    He is correct in that you are looking at a lot of repairs. It may be
    easier, work and the pocketbook, to find another resto candidate.
    You may save money getting another rust free (more so) car compared
    to the expense and labor of rust repairs.

    I'll throw another one at you. Your post says that you are in Iowa.
    In NC, all of the larger counties require 'sniff' tests for inspections
    as well as a complete test of all factory installed emissions equipment.
    They are particularly strict on cars equipped with catalytic converters
    from the factory. I believe in most states, '75 was the first yr. of the
    c/c. From '75 on it has to have one here, and they test everything
    else as well.

    Just a thought in case you are wanting to make this a hot rod, it may
    be a good time to fine a rust free '74 or earlier car.

    Best of luck to you.

    Seth
     

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