I recently added aftermarket guage kit which has and oil pressure guage with a plastic tube. I was wanting to convert the line to copper. My question is has anyone done this and if so can you send me information on the parts you used and some helpful hints on how to do it. Thanks A Bunch. bob Reply to: rjs281@aol.com
I used a very small braided stainless line. Maybe 1/8" diameter. Already had the fittings on both ends. Much less chance of breaking and spewing oil onto your floor or engine bay.
Just buy a copper line kit from your local parts store... it go's on just the same as the plastic line.. don't over tighten it.... Oh and unroll it easy so you don't put a kink in it...
Oil Pressure Guage Hey thanks for the help. I was wondering about the braided stainless steel lines. By chance do you have a part number? Thanks
I got mine at JEGS. Start at this site and work your way toward whatever size you need. http://www.jegs.com/p/Auto-Meter/Au...ressure-Gauge-Hose-and-Tubing/745223/10002/-1 If I recall, I only needed 36" to get from the front left side of the engine block to the radio hole where I have the gauge mounted.
You'll get arguments on this one. Some say the nylon is better due to its flexibility. Copper is better cause of its abrasion/heat resistance. Copper is fussy at the firewall where it flex's. I like the braided idea myself.
Braided will more than likely be -3AN, same as brake line....Order it longer than you think you need or by the time you route it, you'll be sending it back for a longer one....Guess how i know....
How were u able to make that hook-up w/ 3ft. of hose? I have my gauges just right of the hump above the pack tray and used abt all 6ft. of copper tubing. If and when I replace that line I will be going to ss line too.
I'm with the others on the braided idea. Seen too many broken lines(copper and nylon) to even consider using them. Multiple sections or a bulkhead connector at the firewall is also an option when using braided line due to the wide selection of fittings available. Run one 3 to 4ft one in the eng compt to the firewall to a bulkhead connnector and a 2ft section coiled(if necessary) inside from the firewall to the gauge. That adds serviceability also. I use vacuum tubing or a shoe string to get the length right.
Please go with the braided stainless steel line. I don't like the copper lines. It will break and you will have a floor board full of oil. Ask me how I know.
Wish I had know abt the braided line a few months ago. I just replaced my AutoGauge tri set-up w/ Autometer tri's. I removed the plastic lines for copper, abt 8 wks ago. I cud see the plastic getting hard after only little over a year. "Glad I took it out". I had all that dash stuff out doing heater core replace and evap inspect/testing for new ac. I suppose I will chance the copper till I make my nx upgrade. I am considering a new "Kwik Wire 14 cir." wiring harness. The copper will have to do for now it's - riding season.
For those that prefer the mechanical type gauges, using an isolator is a safe alternative to routing hot oil inside. http://pitstopusa.com/i-5064542-auto-meter-high-pressure-isolator.html
I came up with a cheap, "best of both worlds" solution that looks pretty stock, since that's the look I'm currently going for under the hood. Not long ago I had a minor fire that ate up my plastic/nylon oil pressure line, so I decided to replace it with copper. But copper kinks! And if it flexes too much it can break. So I ran my copper line inside a rubber vacuum hose that was just big enough to get it in there comfortably. The rubber protects it from abrasion, and you'd have to try pretty hard to make it kink or break because it limits the amount it can be bent.
