Well, i picked up a book on paint and body, found a good bodyman to replace my rear quarter panel (hit before i owned the car), and i've decided i'm gonna paint it myself! I understand all the bodywork stuff and can rent a paint booth locally. I just have a few questions about what has worked for everyone here. First of all, i appear to have found a pretty good deal on some urethane paint: 3/4 gallon urethane, 1 gallon clearcoat, 1 gallon primer/sealer, catalyst, reducer, spray suit, and spray sock, under $200. The brand is "Kirker Automotive Finishes", has anyone heard of them? Are they decent/is that a fair price? My second question is on a spray gun. I have been told to get an HVLP gun with a 1.4 nozzle. Does that sound right for both the urethane and the primer? Or do i use a larger (2.0) nozzle for the primer? Can anyone recommend a good gun that won't cost an arm and a leg? DeVilbiss was recommended as a good brand (the best, actually), should i just spend the extra money or are there equally good guns for cheaper? Finally i have a question about other materials needed. I know it is necessary to have something to dessicate the air coming from the compressor. Will a rental booth already have one, or do i need to bring my own? Any other suggestions welcome! ~Chris
I admire your desire to finish the body and paint on your car. What I am doubting is your ability to pick up a paint gun and finish coat you car. Bodywork can be done and redone without too much aggravation. Paint work is another ballgame. It is sooooo techinical that if you have never done it, at least find someone who can coach you thru this live. I have never seen anyone pick up a paint gun and spray paint for the first time that wasnt nervous as hell. It has taken me over 30 years to gain the little painting talents I do have. Yes, I remember my first attempt at painting, it was a disaster. But I kept at it and got better each time as well as more experienced. When something goes haywire on the paint halfway thru the painting process, only experience and technical knowledge can bail you out. A 2.0 nozzle is good for primer/surfacers but a small nozzle is best for the finish coats. Also depends on other factors as well. I have no experience with Kerker paints. I mostly use Dupont. The spray gun I use cost me $750.00 over 5 years ago. Is it worth it? Yes! to me it is, cause it does what I need it to do. Devillbiss is a good gun, as well as sharpe which is basically the same, cept cheaper in price. As far as price on paint and materials, I budget $700.00 for a complete paint job. I have spent over $1000.00 on paint and materials on a couple cars. You will have to check with wherever you are renting the paint booth for your requirements on what tools you will furnish and what they have ready to use. hope this helps Dan
Thanks for the response Dan, Actually, the guy i am having do the body work (new 1/4 welded in) has done some pretty good paint jobs and he offered to paint it for me...but i've decided that i would rather make an attempt at it myself. He said he would be happy to coach me through it. I have seen some of his work and it looks "good" to me (in fact, i couldn't tell where the factory work stopped and his started!). So i've got a coach, and i've been reading and re-reading my book on painting and body work, and i think i'm pretty well prepped for it. Also, i plan on removing all the fenders, hood, and doors to make it a little easier on myself. My book says that a better spray gun will minimize problems for an amateur painter, so that's what i was going to go with. A friend of my dad's also said that the newer urethane paints are a little easier to work with than the older enamels. I'm not looking for a show quality job, i just want something that won't chip off everytime something hits it gently, like my last two $500 paint jobs done by local shops. Sounds like a Sharpe gun might be a good investment if they're of decent quality and are cheaper than DeVilbiss. Anyways, thanks for the advice!
The first time i painted one of my cars was the last time LOL ... I went to True Value and bought a can of Alias Chambers red tractor paint and painted a VW Bug ... Heh it was a mess ... But hell i was only 15 .... But i have had several cars and trucks painted by others and the best advice i can give to any one Having someone else do the paint job is to #1 check references and #2 demand that you are allowed to be there (If Possible) . I stayed with my first Camaro almost all the way through the paint process . I figured if i am dropping 1.5 grand i want to make sure its done right ... Funny thing was i had no idea if it was even done right LOL but i acted like i did ... At the very least with me standing there they wouldnt cut any corners ...
with doing the body work yourself that is the heart of a paint job. the prep is the hard part. if you are looking for no chip no peel of the paint, that comes from the prep. the metal has to be preped to take the bondo or glazing compond make sure that all the supplies will work with each other. the rust prep has to work with the primer. the sealer has to work with the paint and the paint has to work with the clear. i know there is a window between each step that has to be met. it is like a big puzzle and all the pieces must fit. i had a paint job once that the sealer on the primer was wrong. about ten weeks it blew off going down the road. they said that i had sanded the primer too slick. i found out later that the sealer was bad. after some of the s$$t paint jobs i have had on some of my show harleys it is more than i would tackle. my hat is off to anyone who wants to do it. i am glad there are people who do. that way i don't have to. good luck!!!frank...
