Hello all, this is my very first time trying to port and polish any type of head so I am willing to take any tips i can get. I have done 2 exh ports and bowls so fare, so take a look and see if this looks to be good enought for a begginer. I also didn't grind the Thermactor bump out i more less just tryed to flow it in and smooth it sence i read there is a water jacket in there and I though It be better not to grind on it much, so I wantn't scape my heads. The Pics look better than they do in person but I have never seen a ported head in person so I am not sure how good there post to be. I know I having a hard time trying to get ever spot cleaned and smooth. Thanks for any pointers.
Looks Good! I thought the Thermactor bumps were solid, they were on my heads. Factory drills through them to inject air into the exhaust without hitting water. Anyway I'd recommend staying conservative and just blend and port match. lbr
looks good...... just wondering if anyone has found a set of hedders that fit our maverick with the gt40p heads
Hello My dad made me a metal template same size as gaskit with a long screw in the middle today and i ported out a little more on the exh runners the same size as the template all the way to the Thermactor bump and took out a little more on the Thermactor bump and gave them a realy good polish job today. Thats A lot of work I hope they flow good I like to have them flow bench to get flow data from them. What kind of campany would you find to flow bench heads? Stage 1 - heads that have minimum clean up work to improve the volume of flow over the as cast condition. Typically heads in this category will have the bowls blended, gasket matching done, and a good three angle valve job. from .100 to .600 lift stage 1 #s GT-40P Cast Iron I 1.84 65 124 173 203 207 203 - Stage 1 Super Ford - May 1999 GT-40P Cast Iron E 1.46 58 102 139 159 162 169 - Stage 1 Super Ford - May 19 Stage 2 - heads that have cleanup work such as full exhaust porting in both the bowl and throat area. The intake will be gasket matched and the bowl will be fully ported. Both ports will usually have some work to enlarge the ports to improve airflow. Typically heads in this category will have some combustion chamber work also to improve flow. there are no #s for the stage 2 My heads will be Ported on the exh side and polished bowl clean up and polished. the Intake side will be clean up with a 80 grit sanding roll. the combustion chambers will be cleaned up and polished.
Go to www.diyporting.com. They also have a link for a guy who ports GT-40P heads, some pretty good pictures and ideas about what works on these heads.
I just checked the DIY Porting site and they moved the GT-40 stuff over to www.stangpro.com. Look in the articles section. Hope this helps, good luck.
Thanks for the info but i all ready have it i have a printed out copy seating on my work bench. thanks
Hello here are 2 pics of the heads the top head is still stock and the bottom heads is ported and polished on the exh ports and bowls. I still have the intake side to clean up and polish with 80 grit. You can see where i was getting better feel for porting if you look at the first pic you can see form right to left of the head the first port i did was on the right as you can see the 2 ports on the left look much better in shape.
hello I was not realy sure if may port and polish job was good or even right , so I took the one head that i have done to the head shop and they sayed I did a realy great job for may first time he pointed on place in the floor of the port as it turns down to the exh bowl. I need to round it off as it turns down to the exh bowl. He also stated that he would not clean up or polish the intake side at all do to felt like a good texter and they were already the size of the intake gaskets. here is the prices he gave me to do my heads grind the valves and cut seats $60.00 Cut spring & bowl hog $40.00 adjust valve spring hieght $40.00 Mill heads $90.00 Total $230.00
The guy at the head shop is correct. In a wet flow intake runner a textured surface adds just a small amount of turbulence and helps keep the liquid fuel in suspension. On the exhaust port roof there isn't really a bump like older Ford casting, it's more like an inverted crater. When I ported my GT40P's I kept the port opening size about the same but opened the roof in a straight line from the opening to the bottom (top?) of the crater. Hope that made sense.
I Plane on trying to get these heads flow benched to see what increase in flows i was able to get from port and polishing the exh ports and bowls that way i know and i am not just gussing. between $35 to $45 a head to be flow benched the guy at the head shop took a caliber and measured my ports from side to side and they ranged from 1.13 to 1.15 inches and i don't remember what the top from bottom was. on the websit (have to be a payed member) http://www.fordmuscle.com/members/archives/2000/07/homeporting/index2.shtml It says you can go as fare as 1.25" x 1.48"
if anyone has found a set of hedders that fit our maverick with the gt40p heads As mentioned in previous threads, my old 302 headers fit by using Accel "shorty" plugs and 90* electronic distributor cap terminals/boots on the driver's side.
I have also seen headers on gt40p heads in maverick on ebay and i asked him how he getbthe headers to work and he said on the driver side he used a header flag that bolts to the head and cut it of a old header he had and used it as a spacer on the driver side to clear the plugs. I have a set of used 6901 hooker headers and I am deturmand to make them work if they have to be cut on, if the 2 above opions don't work for me. Thanks Jim
used a header flag... That's a good idea, too, if you have room for it. You can buy header flanges from header manufacturers , eBay, etc.
You can always trim the shock towers some thing i been thinking about doing any way just for the little extra added clears to work with the headers with or without an added header flag.
