Power disc brakes on a 70 Maverick?

Could someone please tell if it's possible to install power front disc brakes on a 1970 Maverick that has manual drums all the way around. I have all the parts from a 1975 Ford Granada, but it seems like the power booster and master cylinder combination is about 2 inches too long and hits the shock tower.Any suggestions out there wold be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
70mav4me

 

You will need the booster, firewall bracket assembly and strut tower brace that is specific to the Maverick. There are some members that have used a Geo or late model Escort booster.

Do a search for Power Brakes on the forum, lots of posts including this one that I somehow missed.
http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36934&highlight=power+brakes

 

FYI: Disc brakes work fine without the power booster

 

Thanks for the quick reply and the advice about using disc brakes without the booster. By the way, you have a very cool looking Mav!!

 

Maverick1970,thanks for the input, I will check the forums, or maybe just omit the booster like Fish out of water suggested. Thanks guys!!

 

If you choose to eliminate the power booster, get yourself a new master cylinder ($40-$60?), order one for a 74 Maverick with optional disc brakes. 74 was the first year the option was available. It was non-power assisted for that one year only, so its the perfect master cylinder for eliminating the power booster. Thats what I have and pedal resistance and brake power are a non issue. BTW, welcome to the board, and thanks for the kind words. ~Brian

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Like was said, I really wouldn't worry about the booster. I have front discs on my '72 off a '76 Maverick. I'm running a master cylinder from a '73 all drum brake car. Car is a daily driver, works great... pedal effort is really about perfect to me.

 

Fish gave great advice...
What most folks don't consider when swapping to power assist is that the brake pedal needs modding as well, which can be a task if you didn't plan on taking down the pedals as part of the project.

The manual brakes are setup with a pedal design that has much leverage on the master cylinder. Makes it easy on your legs.
The power brakes can't use the same leverage or your pedal becomes ultra touchy.
This is why power brakes are so hard to operate when the engine is not running.
It is not the booster's fault, but the fact that the power brake pedal has very little leverage on the master cylinder.

 

Thank you all for your advice. I'm convinced 100% to not use the booster now, but I will use the master cylinder from a '74. Thanks again for your help, Rick

 

welcome abord

if you go with discs in the front you might also want to consider getting a 5 lug rear as well

 

Personally, the difference is night and day between disc brakes and power disc brakes. Yes, standard disc work just fine but if you ever driven a power set up, you would not be so quick to convince someone they dont need them. If you follow Mavdog71's advice in the link shown above, you will find it takes very little effort and money to make a superior brake system. More like todays modern cars. All my builds will go this route.

 

If you are interested I have the booster, firewall bracket, proportioning valve and the shock tower brace needed for the conversion.
PM me if interested,
Julio

 

Thanks, but I already have a booster,firewall bracket,proportioning valve, and the wierd looking shock tower brace.(all from a 1975 ford Granada) The problem is that the booster and master cylinder assembly CANNOT be bolted on because the master cylinder hits the shock tower, it needs to be about 2" shorter to work, and I'm not going to cut a hole in my shock tower. I was hoping someone out there has put power disc brakes on a 1970 Maverick and could help me with some advice. Thanks again,Rick

 

Mavaholic, thanks for your reply, but like they say, some things are easier said than done. If you read my last post you'll understand the clearance problem I'm having. Have done a power disc brake conversion on a 70 Maverick? If so please share the secret, because I'm ready to go nuts. Thanks again for your input. Rick

 

I have driven both power disc and non power disc Mavericks, drove one of my '76 parts cars over 250 miles which was a factory power disc, power steering, A/C car. The power disc is certainly more touchy, more like driving a new car. I personally have no complaints about either.. My '73 will be power disc though just so it had more of a modern car feel to it.

The reason your master cylinder is hitting the shock tower is because you are missing the spacer that goes between the firewall and booster. The spacer angles the booster and master cylinder up and to the right so that it clears the shock tower. The goofy looking factory power disc shock tower brace will also be required. You also need the power disc pedal assembly.