Hi, I'm looking for a Maverick Grabber in good condition. What should I expcet to pay? I've been surfing on eBay, and original Mavericks in good running condition sell for between $1000-$3000, but most seem to be in Texas or back East. I'm in California, and I'd like to find a local vehicle. I've got a line on a 1973 Yellow & Black Grabber about one hour's drive from me. A friend, who is a former Ford mechanic, is going with me to check it out on Friday. The seller says the car has a few minor dings, very little rust, bucket seats, with a 3" tear in the driver's seat. He's owned it for a year and is a daily driver. It has a V8 engine and about 86,000 on the odo (but of course we know Mavs didn't go past 5 digits). He replaced the rear bumper with a 1972 bumper, but otherwise the vehicle is all original. He says there's a squeek at higher speeds, which he thought was coming from the front. He had the front end aligned and bought two new tires, but the squeek is still there. He thinks now it is coming from the rear. My mechanic friend can probably tell me what is causing the squeek, and how much it will cost to fix. If everything on this car is as nice as the seller says, how much should I offer? He's asking $3500. That a little high for me. I was hoping to get something for $2500-$3000, and not have to put in more than another $550-1000 to make it reliable. Any advice will be appreciated. Roz
Putting a price on an unseen car is pretty hard. Its worth what you are willing to pay. Body work is damn expensive, mechanical work is right behind that and upholstry work is a very close third. The more you can do yourself, the less you can spend on a car. In my opinion, a nice 2 door with nice paint, a decent bucket seat interior, good running 302 & drive train, is worth up to $5000. I'm talking driver quality, not show quality. I'd say offer the $2500 and go from there.
Roz, i would check the cowl vents...that is the most $$$ repair. what i do is bring two jugs of water with me. i pour one in the vent at the bottom of the windshield on the drivers side and one on the pass side. try not to get any on the windshield that is another leak (cheaper to fix). i ask for a water hose to do it with first..no hose, then i get my jugs out. have your friend look under the dash while you pour..try to dump all the water at once on each side. if water drips in the floorboard...walk away. JMO...frank...
The squeaking noise is most likely due to the upper control arm bushings in the front end. They are noted for drying out and squeaking. Sometimes you can install 90 degree grease fittings on the ends to get grease in the dried out bushings.
While Frank is correct in that it is a major repair, I wouldnt walk away from a car just for that reason. It depends on the rest of the car and your intended use. It is a good bargaining tool to get it cheaper.
I agree with Dennis, I wouldn't walk away. The cowl areas on most all Ford cars is very similar from the early 60's through the late 70's. The factory did not paint the areas these guys are referring to. It was usually left as bare metal and they are very prone to rusting. A car can have rust free doors, fenders and quarters and still have the rusty cowl problem. Or, vice versa. I would guess that many cars that you would find would have a leaky cowl problem. Good luck. Seth
I just took some photos this afternoon. I don't know how to add thumnails to a message on this board. Here's a link to a website with a couple of photos. I've got about 6 more pictures (including interior and engine) I can post, if someone tells me how. http://www.sanramonobserver.org/Announcements.html#Observermobile Roz
