Can someone recommend a method and products needed, to halt the spread of rust, and Protect what is still good metal from rusting further, until I can actually have everything fixed. Here's my problem, it's going to be awhile, and I will probably have to do rust repair in phases. But I would like to first of all get the quarters fixed to close off the holes to the trunk, and then work on the trunk floor, and get my car so I don't breath fumes when I drive it. Then I will focus on getting the passenger compartment floors fixed, they aren't too bad, but I don't want them to get worse. Next I would need to have the Torque boxes fixed, Whats the best approach here, with limited budget, no large amounts of cash at one time available, I am literally going to fix areas a little at a time, does that approach work? Can I have 1 quarter fixed at a time? Are there patch panels available for quarters? Can I get new steel fenders or patch panels? the fenders have no dents just rust in the corners. My Comet sat in a garage for 10 years but has been outside since I have owned it, since '98. Advise would be helpful, how would you guys recommend I proceed. Should I just drive it as is until I have the money I need to have it all done at once? Any ideas how much this amount of work would cost? This car is not my daily driver but I want it to be.
Yay! Rust! My car has a good amount of rust also, and I am welding in new steel...If you cant do the work yourself you are looking at ALOT of money!! More than it would cost to buy a solid car for sure. Is it worth it to you? If so, just slather some por15 on the bad spots to slow it down until you can afford to have it fixed. As far as fenders, doors, and other unboltable items, I would look for rust free pieces on the web or locally before I put too much effort into fixing what you have. Good luck.
Well....since you asked..... I would look for another car. Rust free big bumpered cars are going cheap. Way cheaper than you could ever fix that car for. Not only is it the rust you see (torque boxes, etc)...it's also the rust you don't see. That's my opinion. In the meantime....tinker with this car and learn all you can. Make mistakes....then do it over. Experiment. heck....i would ever suggest getting some metal, pop rivits and bondo and spending a weekend "learning". We have all been there....done that. it will be the cheapest "schooling" you will ever get.
Well, because you stated "no large amounts of cash at one time available", I'd say fixing it a little at a time is you best bet. Buying another car would be out of the question. You cannot put a price on the kind of repairs you need it because there are too many variables. I would suggest fixing the structual things first, like the torque boxes. Check into local high schools or votech schools that have an auto shop program. Maybe they will want to use your car as a learning tool. Or take a welding course yourself and do your own repairs. If all else fails, you will have to find a shop willing to do a "per piece" repair. That might be hard to do since most body shops only want to do collision work.
Good points all, I appreciate it, I have kicked the Idea around of learning to weld, any suggestions on the type of welding class to look for. I did look at course guide once, but not really sure what kind of welding I should get into, I have become quite attached to this car and , I understand I could get rust free one, that may still be a course to take. It does have only 72k on it. I do know I want to take it to a shop that does restorations and just get a detailed estimate. That may give me some guidance first of all on how bad it really is. I this I will get some POR 15, is that website listed here somewhere? I 'll search that out. Where woudl you buy sheet metal to work with , maybe I will try some a combination of things until I can do a full on restoration. What gauges are the steel in the floors, Torque boxes, and Body panels?
Mig welding is pretty easy and not too hard to master. Most basic courses will cover this. Mig machines are also the cheapest to buy or rent. If you buy one, spend the extra money and get the gas conversion. If there are no classes are available, you might see if there is a welding shop that could use some free help in exchange for some lessons.
You can get metal from farm supply stores and most hardware stores. It cost me ~ 20 bux to replace one torque box . A welder can more than pay for its self if you know people that need welding done .
Metal is cheap if you go to a supplier and not a place like a hardware store. Around here I can get a 4x8 sheet of 20 ga for around $30.
Yes that is true , you are lucky to have a metal supplier close to you. I would have to drive over 50 miles to get to one.
Are floors the same gauge as body panels, 20 ga? What about the torque boxes, by the way what purpose do the toque boxes serve do they maintain body regitity, or do they help support the subframe, or both? Do you think how-to books would serve as a way to teach myself to weld?
