Hey guys, just wanted to see if you could help me out with a quick issue. I'm in the middle of a disc brake swap for the front of my 72 Maverick. The spindles I have are off of a 77 Maverick. While doing the swap I've already replaced the upper and lower ball joints and the sway bar link. I'm going to replace the inner and outer tie rods as well. My question is should I use tie rod ends from the 77 Maverick or should I stick to the stock 72 tie rod ends. I believe there is a diameter difference so I'll be replacing the sleeve as well. I believe I've heard someone say before that I need to use the 77 tie rod ends because of a slight difference in the spindles. Is that correct? Thanks!
Ok, sounds good. I was going to go ahead and replace the inner tie rods as well since there seems to be too much play. I can't get those things off though ... or at least the driver side being as that's the only one I've messed with so far. I really don't care to drop the steering cylinder to get to where I have some room to knock it out. But let me ask this then. Since I am replacing all tie rods (inner and outer) should I use the newer model tie rods all the way around or use inner from the 72 and outer from the 77? Does it really even matter?
Assuming you are staying with the 72 centerlink I would use the tie rod ends that match it. Not sure if the taper size changed on the centerlink in later years.
Good point. The center link might be a future project but I'm sticking with what's in it for now. Thanks!
On my 72 rebuild with the swap to Granada brakes, I used an NOS manual center link for a 72, Moog inner tie rod and adjuster sleeve for 72, Moog outer tie rod for a 75. All fit perfect.
I ordered the inner tie rods and the sleeve for the 72 and the outer tie rods for the 77. I'll have everything I need tomorrow except for the time to do the job. Again, I'm having a time getting the inner tie rod loose but haven't really used much effort yet. I guess I'll just need to drop the hydraulic cylinder to get some hammer room.
There is a little press tool that pops them off without damage from hammer blows. Or, the old fashioned "pickle fork" separator works too. Your local parts place should have it on their rental board (or loan you one if you bought the parts from them)
Eric, are u referring to a pitman arm puller? I am in the process of doing some steering/suspension work. I did the stab bar bushings & ends yesterday. Hopefully get to the tie rods next. I don't want to do the hammer thing if there's a way around it. I have set of forks, have'nt used them in decades - don't want to now.
Yes, they can be used on pitman arms too. Here are a couple pics from NAPA on various tools that work for steering components. The first one is what I have in my tool box - it is only $12 to buy it.
Yep! That's the way I am going. Even thou Im not reusing the parts; how much room do u have to hammer under a car on jackstands a foot off the grn. Thanks.
The pickle fork isn't getting the job done unfortunately. I'm not too worried about damaging the tie rod since its getting replaced anyway but I'll go the way of the pitman arm tool and see if that works. I'd like to find one like the second picture but all we carry in my store is the first which I was wondering if I even had the clearance to get that one in. I'll try it though since I can get it at no cost. Just a matter of when I get the time to go back out and work on it now.
I have P/S and I can’t get a regular puller over the driver’s side because of the P/S lines. Will the one at O’reilly work? Thanks! http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W83025.oap
Took drivers inner tie rod off today, used Performance Tool - Puller W83025. I had to hand filed the bottom it to make it fit and had to use a cheater bar on my wrench but it came off. Passenger side came off with standard pitman arm/tie rod puller and outers came off with pickle fork.J
