Hi Everybody! My '71 Maverick is starting to slow down. I'm thinking of rebuilding the 200 engine--certainly one of the easier engines to work on! I was wondering what the general consensus is on where to get rebuild part kits. I'm not wanting to convert it to a Grabber, which would be near to impossible with a 200, I'm just wanting to getting it back to its purring self. Also, the second to the front (passenger side) freeze plug has a small little leak. Any suggestions on how to replace it prior to taking the engine out? Or is this a sign that I better not drive the car even to the store until I can do it right? Thanks for all the help! Sincerely, Renton5
pull it get yourself a kit from autozone. just to a refresh on the motor with new rings. have the block checked for cracks and hot tanked to clean it all up for ya then have the shop drop in some new freeze plugs (cheap) then have the block honed and clean up all of your old parts check the wrist pins on your pistons if theyre good put them back in with new rings on them. I would replace the old bearings and oil pump just for kicks since its apart anyway. then put in new stock valves and youll get another 30 years out of it.
the 200 was slow to start with, you are just beginning to notice it... if I was wanting to keep a 6 cyl, I would upgrade to a 250...rebuild a C-4 to match and enjoy the new found power for the same money as rebuilding a 200 and then have the transmission go South 6 months later...JMO
the leak could be...block cracked/rusted out freeze plug... I would not drive it...rusting out freeze plugs are a sign the motor was ran with...not enough or no antifreeze...the block will also be full of...rust scales...they will come loose and stop up the radiator/heater core... even after the rebuild you will need to have the heater core/radiator cleaned out before firing it up... also running without enough antifreeze will cause the water pump to wear out (lack of lube). you may want to replace it with the rebuild. as junrai pointed out..."have the block checked for cracks and hot tanked to clean it all up for ya then have the shop drop in some new freeze plugs." Good luck and have fun doing it...:Handshake
Many Thanks Hello, Junrai and 71Gold! I appreciate your advice and suggestions about my Maverick and the repairs/rebuild. It'd be cool to put a larger engine in it, but I don't have the funds available to purchase one. The leak from the plug is very small, and every time before I took the car out, I'd check the radiator--the loss was insignificant. Is there any reason why I shouldn't replace all of the engine bolts, the idea of trying to torque 40 year-old bolts scares me! Thank you! Sincerely, Renton5
it's not the size of the leak, it's when will it or another one blow out... you would come closer to wanting to change your lugs/nuts after every 3 tire rotations before changing the 200 bolts once...JMO
Feeling Positive! Thank you all to who've responded! One final question for now: During the next couple months, I'll be ordering the replacement parts when my income allows. I'm thinking of going with Fel-Pro for the gaskets and maybe Edelbrock for piston rings, cam, etc. I'm wanting to stick with American-made only. What other manufacturers can be recommended to look at? I want stay as close to OEM as possible, not going for the chrome. Sincerely, Renton5
Yeah but the 250 torque was always greater & the HP rating was taken at over 1000 RPM less than the 200, with a little tuning the 250 will kick sand in the 200 face any day...
Peace Between Us Come on now, boys! We agree that Mavericks are cool cars, we're united with that...and Pintos stink!
Maybe from a monetary stand point but defiantly not from a power loss... Anyway you are comparing apples to oranges when looking at pre vs post '72 figures, your numbers are meaningless... The ratings were changed from gross(HP as produced on a engine dyno with a free exhaust system) to net figures(installed in vehicle with accessories & exhaust) plus compression was cut in all engines in '72('71 for GM)... Basically one can deduct 25-30% from the pre '72 figures to get a true as installed HP figure... Takes just a little tuning to get the smoggers, to run nearly as well as the pre '72 engines... Yes the loss of compression hurts a bit but only 3 to 5%, generally easy enough to fix on a rebuild... BTW in '69 when Ford introduced the 250 they claimed it would accelerate evenly to 50 MPH with a 2V 302, try that with a 200...
Beginning in 1972 horsepower and torque are SAE net figures. They are measured at the rear of the transmission with all accessories installed and operating.
I rather have torque than HP. You don't feel HP but torque is what pushes you into the seat when you mash the gas pedal. The 75 200 w/MT has 145 ft. lbs. The 75 250 w/MT has 180 ft. lbs.
