Thought I would let everyone know about some new roller rockers I bought off ebay. Have used Crane silver colored one's on some of my engines and depending on abuse such as high rpm racing, they have given me some issue's like the cross pin in the tip roller coming out and breakage in the needle bearing area, of the stud mount shaft. Saw this auction on ebay awhile back and decided to try a set, have not installed yet on my 347, but man do they look good and seem very HD as his description implies. 126.00 plus shipping. Less than 150.oo for the set and can get in 3/8th or 7/16 stud size. Am so impressed with them, thought I would share the info. Search this item # in ebay auto parts. #260043585114. Guy's name is Skip White and has excellant feed back. Won't get to give you any details on reliability until I run the 347 next season, but from my standpoint of dealing with other brands, these are the best I've seen yet, for the money. JMO
Pretty good, Doc say's everything inside looks OK but still have a little fluid around the pancreas and some stones in the gall bladder. Am going to have to make a decision on removing it now or later, wait, there are still four races left this season. Guess that answers that question. Just got back from Pine Bluff with Mavmans converter, was toast and had to be rebuilt completely. new everything except the two cover halve's, also increased the stall to 5200 range. 265.00 bill. Thought that was reasonable, he did build it originally, four years ago. (Bill Dowdy--Southern Transmissions) Keep telling #1 son, the reason it crapped out after so many years is that it is a turbo 350 cheby converter and powerglide trans, behind the windsor 408. My C4 Fairbanks converter is ten years old and still going behind the 331. Must admit the torque difference for the 408 will put lot's of strain any converter/trans combo, at that stall. As long as there is racin and something for me to drive down the track, I will be in my safe little world, if that makes any sense. Later
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/302-351-460-FORD-ALUMINUM-ROLLER-ROCKERS-SBF-302-351W_W0QQitemZ260043585114QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33617QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I have used Harland sharp RR with great success. Those do look nice though. I will be awaiting your feedback once used.
Good price...do these just bolt right in? If so, I will buy some. What size do I need on GT40P heads?
Don't have any idea what the gt heads are like. On a head without screw in studs, you have to do lot's of machine work. Guide plates and either 3/8th's or 7/16th's studs. I would go with the bigger one's for future mod's to cam and spring pressure. Roller cams almost always need the 7/16th's for use with up to, six or seven hundred pound open spring pressure. Not all cams use that stiff a spring but while you are in process, either size will work on the threaded holes anyway. Hardened push rods are a must for pedal to the metal driving too. Push rod length, coil bind, etc. are an issue sometimes too. Then you will usually have to use a taller valve cover with RR, to clear. Lot's of issue's in this game of hot rodding, that can get real frustrating, patients and a slow approach will usually solve them. Good luck as always.
I think it's Crane that makes a kit to convert pedistal rockers, like on GT40Ps, to stud mount. Uses plastic guide plates. The only problem is the studs screw into the factory 5/16"' bolt holes, not very strong if you have heavy valve springs, but ok for a mild street engine.
This company also have HEI distributors for about $60. Is this a good price & would I still need a coil. They have some cheap prices. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-302-DISTRIBUTOR-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-289-FORD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQihZ016QQitemZ260045041760
I've heard some bad things on other forums about this company's products. Supposedly from Taiwan or China. Never used any of their stuff myself, though. Without knowing what brand of roller bearings they put in those rockers I don't think I would trust them. Those little needle bearing can cause havoc when they start circulating through your engine.
I hope this isn't the case as I'd hate to see Dave's motor tear up. He does seem to have good feedback tho, so maybe he'll be in luck.
There are no guaruntee's in any engine that is hammered on excessively. I have used every brand of rocker except Jesel shaft one's. The crane energizer's were the absolute worst on our race engine's. No snap ring to hold the bearing in and the roller tip shafts kept coming out. Crane did send me new set's but they still were of bad quality, in my opinion. The rentastang, had them on there and one broke, needles in the oil pan. Being it was in the middle of a race meet, replaced the rocker and changed oil, to continue on. Did put a large magnet we had in the parts inventory, on the bottom of the pan, just for trial. Made several more 7000rpm runs and then went to the house and pulled out the engine. No needles around the magnet area but lot's in the oil pump pickup screen, way in the back. Found a few ticks on the bottom of the cylinders. Cleaned out everything, cut open the filter and inspected it. Back to racing next week after. These new one's are looking like a better quality than most, at the price. Course if I had the money, Crane gold would work, 300.00 worth, then maybe Jesell shaft type would be the optimum at around 1000.00. Nope, not in that league Andy.
And neither am I... you seen the roller tip rockers Im running from Crane... course they were expensive, but good thing they came w/ the motor... I was gonna do stud/guildplates and roller rockers but im saving for a better set of heads first. I may try those rockers out when I get good aluminum ones
