Anyone here have problems installing the airgap? it's on my 302 block 347 with the rpm aluminum heads. Had the engine together, went to do final inspections before first fire, and noticed after doing a pressure test, my intake is leaking... now, i have went through 4 gaskets of different types. I even bought the expensive edelbrock gasket itself, and still have leaks through my rear 2 bolts up and beneath where you cant see. I even bought the gasgacinch they reccommend. what did you guys use to get it to seal properly? It's so Da** frustrating. Thanks.
Trust me, THERE'S NO WAY ANYONE CAN BOLT A 351W INTAKE ON A 302.It just ain't gonna happen in this universe. DSorry, but you left yourself wide open for this)
Have you tried a test fit, before using sealer and bolts ? Remove the intake, clean all the gasket crap off, set the gaskets you're going to use in place(with no sealer and end gaskets) and see how it fits. Check the end gap under the intake, compare that with the end gaskets you're using, if any, some use em, like me, some don't.
never put an air-gap on a 302 but had one on a windsor one time. Wouldn't even come close to bolting on straight out of the box because my block had been zero decked and my heads had been shaved too. Had to take a die-grinder to it on the left and right hand long edges to make it even fit between the tops of the heads.
Mine fit my AFR's just fine. Are you using the rubber seals on the front and rear of the manifold? I never use those, just a thick bead of silicone.
Nope, not I Common sense told me long ago that an intake that's 2 inches wider won't fit where a 2 inch narrower one does.
To seal the end gaskets use Lock-tite "Gasket Maker". put a .010" (very thin) film on both sides of the cork or rubber gasket and set the manifold (or shield) in place. place the bolts in finger tight and wait 20 minutes to torque them down. You can use a very small amount of silicone RTV at the water ports, a thin film on both sides of the gasket to seal the water passages but you have to have a clean head and manifold to do this. I use 100 grit sand paper and denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) or laquer thinner to do the final cleaning. Dry the parts with air and put it together. The heads will rust before they leak.
Felpro's cork end gaskets have an adhesive on the bottom sides now. The rubber seals have "tits" to keep them in place biglaugh:sorry that's the best term I could think of on short notice)
ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! A 7" grinder probably would have done a much better job. It also works great to shorten the tops of valve guides for higher lift cams too. Just thought I would add that. Haha Cleaver
