Okay, Matt has fall break in just over a week, so we plan to sand out the rust and treat it with rust bullet. I have a few questions for those who have used RB. 1 - Do you need to use (or is it best to use) their "Metal Blast" spray before applying the Rust Bullet or would you just put the rust bullet on after sanding (and cleaning off loose rust). 2 - What do you know about the "Black Shell" formula. Is it better at protecting from future rust? What is special about it. 3 - How far does it go. I only need to do the cowl, area above both drip rails, and two dime size places on fenders. There is a "Double shot" kit that comes with two 4oz cans, brushes and gloves for $20. (one 4oz can is over $10). Or should I order more than that? I tried to call Rust Bullet directly and they sent me to the Technical Dept's voicemail. Wanted to order it today so that it will be here by Fall Break.
That was what I planned Dave. But alas the instructions don't come until after I order. I will wait until thier Tech Rep calls back. Actually, I was hoping to see what worked for the people who had used it. Especially about "how much" I should order.
I saw an independent test done by an individual a few years ago. He compared Rust Bullet to Eastwoods Rust encapsulator. Eastwoods out performed Rust Bullet.
i would suggest the small cans. it has no shelf life after being opened. i buy the...6 pack. ...Frank...:Handshake
I second that. Get the 6 pack of small cans. I have only been able to keep this stuff for a couple of weeks after it is opened. It is too expensive to toss half a quart in the trash. Por15 is the same way. Cleaver
rust bullet Iam a littel late. i used it on a vw had in put on by a body shop that product is garbeg and service after sale was bad. it bubbled and cost me 500.00 to reblast and add par 15 there service dept said it was installed wrong i had 5 othere body guy try it with the same resolts its just sucks
Just a little tip for Rust Bullet, Por 15, or any of these type products. Never open the can or as stated, no shelf life. Simply take a pointed object and tap a small hole somewhere in the top close to the side about a 1/4" in diameter or so. Pour out the amount you want to use in a different container. One hole works fine unless you want it to pour very fast, if so put one on each side. Find a screw a little larger than the hole and simply screw it in to seal up the hole. It will seal up very nicely. You dont have to rip the can apart trying to open it the next time...just unscrew the bolt. I have a quart can of Por 15 that was opened two years ago and is still good.
Eastwoods rust encapsulator also keeps quite well. Had a half quart that was a year old...Still worked fine this year.
I'm sure I read in the instructions for one of those, probably POR15, that any contamination makes it set up. If you're brushing a dirty area and dipping the brush back in the can it puts dirt in the can and ruins what's left. I've had some cans go bad after the first use and have reused some cans several times depending, I think, on how much trash got into it. Probably a good idea to pour out what you think you'll use and don't put any back.
I used Rust Converter. Purchased at walmart, ibought two areosal cans and two liquid bottles. i had some minor rust under the carpet drivers side front. i used a sanding wheel also bought at walmart to remove the big stuff and make sure no holes in florr board. then a quick vac and a clean up. sprayed area and in 12 hrs the spot turns to primer. from there a rattle can of krylon to cover. 1&1/2 years later no rust. Spent a total of $25.00. good luck
The converter works OK if the metal is still fairly thick but if you need to build up the surface a little POR, Bullit, or Encapsulator works best. I have seen guys redo entire trunk pans and floors with this stuff buy useing with fiberglass mat (there is a post about trunk pans on the site) If you are planning on doing any body work over the area the converter would be the way to go. The other products can set up so hard that fillers have a hard time sticking to them.
I have had decent luck with Rust Bullet. My floorpans were flaking in spots, but were still thick enough. I did some patch panels in the worst spots that were pinholed. Painted it all in Rust Bullet. I did have the areas very clean, wiped it all down first (I think with Acetone). The Black Shell is just another coat of Rust Bullet, but colored Gloss Black. You use it over some base coats of their regular stuff. Goes on nice. These seat tracks were fairly nasty-looking. I cleaned them up, had to build up the back edge on one rear riser with JB Weld. Painted them with Rust Bullet and Black Shell. These were brush-painted. You can get it nice and smooth if you take your time. Like stated... very weak shelf life with the stuff if opened. Get the small cans, the six pack is about the best deal. Two tips... if you open a can and pour some out, but still have some left in the can, place Saran Wrap between the lid and the can. Any paint on that rim will glue the lid shut. You need to do this even if you want to reopen the can an hour later. I like Ray's tip, too. I have had some luck saving a half can for a couple months by making a small balloon out of a newspaper bag or vegetable bag. Tie it off, inflate to about golf ball size for the small cans, and toss it in there. It means that there will be a lot less air for the paint to react with while sealed up. Take up as much space as possible with the balloon. I do the same thing with other products that I use to finish furniture. It does seem to extend the shelf life.
