Rust - Where is the flaw in this plan.

Discussion in 'Cosmetic' started by DVCRobin, Sep 9, 2010.

  1. DVCRobin

    DVCRobin Member

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    Was talking to a collegue today and telling him about our work on our Maverick. He indicated that he has used CLR (Calcium, Lime and Rust remover) to remove any surface rust from various machinery on his farm. He just dips a cloth in the CLR and rubs out the rust.

    There has got to be something more he is not mentioning. I would expect the CLR to leave a film or something that would impede the primer's ability to adher.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. Mike Tucker

    Mike Tucker Member

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    My goodness is it April 1st already????????????????????????
     
  3. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    CLR may remove rust "stains" from painted surfaces but it is not strong enough to "remove" rust.
     
  4. darren

    darren Member

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  5. DVCRobin

    DVCRobin Member

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    Thanks for the info. I thought what he was telling me did not make sense. When I looked on the internet, there were sites telling people to use CLR and sandpaper for rust removal on cars. But something just didn't sound right.

    What I have learned so far on these boards about rust is ...

    1 - there is only one way to ensure rust is gone - cut it out.
    2 - if you want to go the "sand it down" route, you have to make sure you kill or neutralize the rust so that you don't have it coming back. (even though it looks like you have sanded it all away - it can hide)
    3 - There are plenty of highly toxic neutralizers out there.
    4 - As for Rust Bullit and POR 15, there are many differing opinions on whether it is just a paint over or an actual rust neutralizer.

    I was hoping for a rust neutralizer/killer that would not require the services of a hazmat team afterwards.
     

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