im fixing body work and rust on my car every now and then while im driving daily here is the problem im having on my hood and my passenger fender ( first panels i did work on back in spring) and they are in primer well just rustoleum from local hardware store and im having rust bubble from underneath i know i need to go back and fix it but i did just find out that its not a sealing primer and since im not going to be painting the car till next year i need to seal it off where can i get a sealing epoxy primer ( ive heard is good ) in a rattle can since the only air compressor i have is a 2hp little 2 gallon. im going to get hard core on all the body work and blocking the car in the spring getting ready for paint but im just stopping and replacing the rusted holes for now. thanks
Epoxy primer is meant for bare metal application.It will seal up the panels for a while. Rattle can primers are a "sponge in a can" They suck moisture out of the air and rust whatever metal they are on top of. Eastwood company sells a 2K (urethane/not epoxy primer) in a rattle can that works well and will seal out moisture for a long time. You do have to treat the rusted areas with removal of the rusted metal or grinding/sanding/blasting to remove it. You should then treat rust areas where you cant remove all the rust with a rust neutralizer (usually where rust pitts are present that cant be cleaned out). Then top coat with a rust encapsulator product like rust bullett before primeing/painting.This will assure the rust you could not remove wont re-activate and pop like its doing to you now. Good luck!!!
ok thank you ill search for it. ive been using por15 on any rust to stop it but must of just had a bare metal spot. this primer can be painted over by just about any paint with out issues right?
Stick with a specific paint brand for all you paint components. Mixing and matching is not a good idea since different brands dont play well with each other. Duponts 2K (urethane primer) plays well with several paint brands. I have used it succesfully under Valspar (house of color) R&M and Sherwin williams paints as well as Dupont products. Eastwoods 2K in a spray can workes well also but I have only used it on chassis parts/ frame rails etc...I have only topcoated it with Easwood products so I cant tell you if it will play well with other manufacturers products.(see first sentence) Hope this helps you some.Good luck!!!
thanks i just need something to seal the panels when i go to paint i can always just sand most of it off and prime the whole car before i lay the color down. ill make sure with my buddy that is going to let me use his stuff and teach me how to paint of what paint he has used with his cars so ill know more of what ill need to get
I agree with using 2k epoxy to seal up any hard work you do, rattle cans just won't cut it, or other primer types for that matter, exposed to the elements. Any idea on what kind of cfm that little compressor puts out? Not alot of horsepower, and a tiny tiny tank for reserve, but Maybe you could find a conventional spray gun with modest enough air requirements, spray a panel at a time. This one says it only takes 5 cfm, and cheap enough to try. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-5-cfm-gravity-feed-spray-gun-91009.html Fixing a panel at a time and getting in primer also may help to not feel so overwhelmed if you start looking at and trying to tackle all the areas on the car. Not going to be able to shoot large areas and have the compressor hope to keep up, but maybe you can work on a panel at a time and it will spray good enough to get primer on there. Those 2k primer spray bombs are probably pretty pricey for the amount of material you get and the fact you only would have one time use out of it (once its been activated), and the small pattern an aerosol puts out makes putting on a good wet coat on a decent sized area difficult. You could probably pick up a quart of epoxy and activator for not much more. I also seen Harbor freight has rechargeable refillable aerosols, but no idea how well they work, as I haven't needed to try. http://www.harborfreight.com/reusable-refillable-aerosol-spray-can-1102.html Just don't forget to protect yourself and wear proper respiratory, skin and eye protection and have ventilation when working with automotive paints and chemicals. If you plan on doing much bodywork in the future, then a good sized compressor is a good investment, usually the biggest you can afford. And another car to drive and take the car your working on off the road while doing the work on it, so you don't have to back track and can keep it out of the elements and hopefully keep it somewhat clean of contaminates while working on it. I've always mixed brands of paint and primers and haven't had a problem, but you could be taking a chance if you mix brands and don't use the same line which is designed to work together. That said, most brands of primer I've used seem to be compatable with other brands of base, and base with anothers brand of clear. But you should use the correct activator for the product your using, and a quality reducer. In some cases you must also use the specific reducer called for by the manufacturer, when they use a special reducer, such as dupont chromabase's basemaker.
thanks for the help im getting closer to swapping my c4 out for a 4 speed so body work will just have to be on hold for now. but ill be looking on craigslist for at least a 5hp compressor. and im probably going to pick up that spray guy you posted the link off i read the reviews and they said was great for primer and sealers. and thats all im looking for since the final paint job ill be using my buddies stuff and its top notch yea i wish i had the time and money to just park my car and do all the body work and paint at once but im 18 and just learning all this stuff and doing what i can with the money i put aside for it. im just glad i found all this out about the primer i was using before i painted the whole car and have to go back and fix it all. but i know for sure that when i go to paint the car ill be blocking the whole car and rear priming the entire car and then paint all at once to fix all the daily driver beats on the primer
I have used rattle can self etching primer for short term bare metal coverage and it worked alright. I also use a hvlp spray gun from harbor frieght that has given me great results and uses half the air pressor and less paint. I have only shot one truck with this gun but was impressed with it and its price. It came as a 2-gun kit for around 60 bucks.(I used a 2 hp compessor) I will be going over my car again and plan on uses Sherwin Williams base coat clear and I'll let ya know how that works for me. I am using Rage Gold filler and I love it. Good luck and keep us all posted.
Yea keep me posted on the paint id like to see how it turns out and ill find out what my buddy has been using to see what ya'll think i just found an aircompressor on craigslist i can post a link to it later using my phone at the moment but its an older twin cylinder 100psi 12 gallon 8.1scfm displacement 5.4 scfm at 90psi and 6.4 scfm at 40psi for 75 bucks this should work just fine for spraying for primer just a panel at a time I also saw a 10gallon tank for 20 bucks and if i plumbed that into the 12 gallon that will help the over all scfm for painting and tools right
No a larger tank will not help you with cfm at all, but with more reserve air, I would think would help the compressor to not have to run as much (Underpowered compressor, running a lot, means more moisture in the air line.) Which reminds me, you should get a moisture trap, to help catch water in the lines, even if just shooting primer. It should be located at least 25' of airline from the compressor, mounting right on the compressor will do no good. I just use a cheaper one around 30 bucks at Sears. I don't have plumbed airlines, I just use an air hose. But I do run it from the compressor up to the rafters, and allow a few droops in the line before going into the trap. It seems to do okay. When the plumb airlines for painting they allow some drops to catch water. From the water trap, I run another hose from that to my gun, and on my gun I have a smaller water trap, and regulator. Run full pressure out of your airtank and regulate your pressure at your gun. Harbor frieght has good and bad. I have big buck guns now, but have had decent luck with some cheaper guns from there. Watch harbor freight on regulators/ water traps. I haven't had any problems with the smaller regulators for mounting on the spray gun. But I bought a 80 gal sandblaster and the first time I hooked it up, the regulator exploded, busted right off the threads. I didn't thread together well. Could have bought the farm had I been standing in its path. Did some reading, and others have had that happen too. Just mention that because I see they have a water seperator/filter that looks similar to it, though I haven't ever bought one. I haven't used sherwin williams products, other then some cheaper western clear that seemed okay and real similar to dupont nason. But seems quite a few painters don't seem to give them a lot of praise. If you can find it, pro spray for their polyester basecoat http://www.prosprayfinishes.com/and southern polyurethanes (epoxy)primers, clearcoat, reducers http://southernpolyurethanes.com/ has been the best quality-bang for the buck I've found so far. I've used the combination on the last few cars I did. (repair on brothers silverado, uncles silver grand prix, and silver cavalier on my website that combo was used. I used utechs polyester basecoat (azko nobel) and it seemed okay too, but only used it once so far (utech bases, and spi universal clear on black/silver 89 mustang). Most other cheaper basecoats seem to be enamel based and often cover for sheet along with poor metallic control. I used a fair bit of omni in the past (at one of my jobs as well as some shot at home for cheaper jobs) and got fed up with the junk, with limco not far behind. Both pro spray and utech should be real competitive in price and a lot nicer base. Pro spray ran half the cost my jobber gave mr for ppg deltron in the same color code.
