How much of a hassle are solid lifters for a street car? Will they take any power away from the car at low rpms, or are they the same at low and just better for higher rpms? I really don't know all that much about them, just keep hearing that you have to adjust them often, but what exactly is "often"? I drive on average 1000 miles per year (at least I have for the 5 years I have had this car). How many adjustments would I need to do during a year/1000 miles? Are "mechanical" and "solid" interchangeable terms or two different things?
With a properly selected combination, you may never have to adjust them. As long as the springs are up to par, the studs are good, pushrods, and you break it in properly, you'll be fine. When I say break it in properly, pull the outer springs off and run it with the inner springs only...just don't rev it very much. 2500 max for 15 minutes, let it cool, do it again for a minute or two....let it cool off again and put the outer springs on and go hammer on it. That said, there are companies that offer a break-in service for a fee....and the hard part is already done for you. If I were to buy a new solid flat-tappet cam, I'd look into it pretty seriously. The Mustang has a mild solid cam....haven't had to adjust any clearance in 2 years and we do beat on it quite a bit. We just check them once in a while and that's all it ever needs-checked. Same for my Maverick. Lots of duration and lift, but rarely does it need to be adjusted. Only checked once in a while.
I may not need it, but I have been thinking about doing a solid roller when I rebuild. I was going to swap the cam soon, but have decided that I will just drive it as is until rebuild time, then AFR 185 heads, max out the cam, and go solid roller. It will be an interesting car to drive on the road when I get done...Still can't decide on a 347 or 331 stroke...
i have a question about solid lifters what or how much work needs to be done in the lifter valley for solid roller conversion? i thought i read somewhere you have to notch the block to make room for the lifters...
Solid (mechanical) lifters rev faster, make more power, AND have a wider power band. They make more low end power and more top end power. Better thottle response... You don't need any block mods to run a solid. Your heads need everything they need to run roller rockers. They must be adjustable. For most folks that means: Screw in studs Guide plates Hardened pushrods Roller rockers with polylocks The rollers aren't a must, but combined with the locks, it means that adjustments do not need to be a constant thing. You can lock in the lash very long term. You must take extra care when breaking in a solid cam. Hydraulics are only supposed to run light springs on break-in, but alot of us skip that. It is very important on a solid cam because there is no cushion, or room for error. Dave Also, solid cams idle better and make more vacuum than a similar spec'd hydraulic cam.
it will be there in couple months they are back ordered right now :evilsmile ohhh i didnt know that, cool
That is for a solid non-roller, right? Am I correct to assume that a roller needs no real "break-in"...? And, I will keep an eye out for that DART block coming in the mail, what...late January, early February???
The engine I am building will have a solid roller. Adjustment is no big deal. I would rather adjust solids any day vs. hydraulics with an adjustable valvetrain. With solids, you set it and it's right. No guess-work. If you have a hydraulic cam and an adjustable valvetrain, you snug it down until there is no play and then give it a 1/2 or 3/4 or whatever, then you start it. If it's noisy, you do it all again and give it a little more. If it idles rough, you back them off.
Yes, solid flat-tappet cams make more power, but they are also noisey, and less reliable than hydraulic cams...
I am still watching and learning...keep it going guys. Also, I am thinking more along the lines of solid roller. After doing one cam swap with flat tappet, the stress of that first startup and break in was enough to make me spend the money to convert to roller...
Only down side to solid rollers is that they are expensive. Figure $750 to convert from a hydraulic flat tappet cam to solid roller. Lifters alone are $300. Springs, pushrods, rocker arms, retainers, keepers, head gaskets for a 302 (heads have to come off to drop the lifters into the block on 302's and 289's). Solid rollers need good springs...for a mild cam, you're looking at seat pressures of 225-250lbs, open pressures of 400-600 depending on lift. That's a lot of pressure on standard steel retainers, which is why it's a good idea to upgrade to titanium...which is lighter anyway. Steel works...but they wear out eventually. The valves also have to be of good quality. No 2 piece valves as generally the head of the valves have a tendancy to break off and destroy everything. But, the advantages far outweigh the cons. Idle better, no break in, reliable (if the parts are chosen correctly), wider power band, more top end power, sound better, and cooler oil temps. If I had another set of lifters, I'd put a solid roller in my Mustang. For now it stays flat tappet.
