Currently, I have my front speakers mounted like so: ...but I'd really rather have them mounted behind the kick panels like some of the later cars. Yesterday, I scored a nice pair of black '74 kick panels with speaker grilles. The car I pulled them from had round speakers behind them, I'm guessing 6"-6.5", and they were of course mounted in holes that don't exist in my car. Anybody ever cut out the metal behind the kick panels to mount speakers in a car that didn't previously have them? Is it as simple as that, or are there structural considerations?
To be more specific: I have done this in my 71. Cutting out the hole is easy enough with a dremel and reinforced cutting disc after drawing the circle using the pattern supplied with the speakers (you have to be careful to locate the hole so nothing interferes with the speaker -- I used pics of a later model car for reference). Unfortunately with the metal not being flat there, the speaker really doesn't sit in there very well, so sound quality suffers a bit. I made some slight adjustments to the metal to get three holes relatively flush and used the clip inserts that came with the speakers to screw into (like what's on the fender bolts, except for coarse screw threads). I want to reinforce it and provide a complete mounting surface for the speaker with a ring of thicker metal or possibly a different material, but I have not gotten around to doing it yet.
if you look at my post on installing audio in the how to section I have some pics of the metal cut out. There is a metal ledge behind the hole you cut which is kind of a PITA. the whole can be cut out and the magnet should clear the back. my 5.25" speakers clear it well.
Done this as well and it works well. Enough room for the speaker and passive crossover in you want to run seperate tweeters and mids.
Way to go! Let me know if you have any questions on custom stereos. I have done custom enclosers, wiring, battery splitters, stiffy caps and more in my Maverick. If I don't know - I bet I can point you in the right direction.
Thanks, will keep that in mind. I think at this point though, I've about nailed it. It's not an expensive setup, built it Johnny Cash style- a piece at a time, but I really like the way it sounds: Kenwood KDC-MP145 deck (Pawn shop! - $75 New) Kenwood 625 watt amp (Found in the car when I bought it - $0) JL Audio 8" subs, mounted behind the rear seat. (Bartered from my brother for some wiring work - $0) Blaupunkt THx693 3-Way 6x9's in the rear (Christmas present from the wife, so it was still technically bought with my money, but I don't count it. - $0) Blaupunkt THc650 component set - 6.5's, passive crossovers and tweeters. Mounted these behind the kick panels, and after much agonizing over where to put the tweeters, I finally put those in the kicks too, but I angled them in such a way that they point directly at the driver and passenger. Unobstructed, but out of sight. An important goal in the whole install was to keep this stuff as hidden and stock-looking as possible. (Shipsound.com, $45.) Wire, fiberboard, connectors, screws and other random things, probably about $30. So all told I have about $150 in it, and it sounds wonderful. Now I've just got to do something about my stock ~60 amp alternator. My ammeter says it's barely adequate. It was okay, but the stereo sent it over the edge. With the MSD, AC, condenser/engine fans, lighting upgrades, extra gauges, etc. it's a wonder I've managed to keep that alternator as long as I have. At night, I can no longer run the AC on high with the stereo up the headlights on and still charge the battery, unless I'm cruising above 2000 RPM. Even worse if I have to turn the wipers on. I know what to do about it, just gotta do it...
